West Africa Country Dossier

For travellers looking for the unexplored, seeking to really get off the beaten track and searching for somewhere truly unusual, there are few more enchanting and unspoilt destinations than the small West African countries of Ghana, Togo and Benin.

Well off the face of the tourist map, these nations are shrouded in a fascinating history largely overlooked by the western world. The tiny country of Benin was once home to an important and complex society that produced some of the finest artwork in all of Africa, and the whole region was part of what became known as the ‘Slave Coast’, with individual tribes and empires embroiled in the lucrative and sinister trade. Today, having gained independence from their various colonial rulers, Ghana, Togo and Benin offer a real treat for the traveller. With colourful markets, the friendly chatter of countless different dialects, and breathtaking scenery, visitors can enjoy immersing themselves in a culture that is as enlightening as it is alien. In Benin, the home of voodoo, archaic and intricate rituals are played out today as they have been for centuries, and Ghana, home of the Ashanti, is renowned as being the legendary Kingdom of Gold that first enticed western powers to these shores, where the ancient king venerating ceremonies still exist and have as much relevance as modern practices. But perhaps best of all is the fact that when visiting this region, you really do get the feeling that you’re pushing the boundaries of travel, venturing into the unknown, and treading forgotten paths, and for me, that has to be one the best reasons to travel.

Jim O'Brien, Head of Operations - Imaginative Traveller

Factfile

Ghana

Capital: Accra
Official Language: English
Religion: Christian 60%, Muslim 15%, animist 25%
Voltage: This varies from country to country (the format is UK style in Ghana and European in Benin in Togo). Bring a travel plug.

Togo

Capital: Lome
Official Language: French
Religion: Animist 65%, Christian 20%, Muslim 15%
Voltage: This varies from country to country (the format is UK style in Ghana and European in Benin in Togo). Bring a travel plug.

Benin

Capital: Porto Novo
Official Language: French
Religion: Animist 65%, Christian 20%, Muslim 15%
Voltage: This varies from country to country (the format is UK style in Ghana and European in Benin in Togo). Bring a travel plug.

Preparing to go

Visas

Almost all nationalities, with the exception of some West African countries, require a visa for visiting Ghana, Togo and Benin and these should be obtained in advance.

Please note that travellers will require multiple entry visas for both Ghana and Togo, and a single entry visa for Benin.

This information was correct at the time of writing. However it is advisable to re-check the latest information regarding your specific visa requirements with your local Ghanaian, Togolese and Beninese Embassy or Consulate, a few weeks before your planned date of travel.

Money

Local Currency

The monetary unit in Ghana is the cedi. Approximate exchange rates (as at January 2007) are as follows:


In Togo and Benin, it is the CFA Franc. Approximate exchange rates (as at January 2007) are as follows:

There is no restriction on the amount of foreign currency that a visitor may bring into Ghana, Togo and Benin.

Note: It is not usually possible to obtain any of these currencies outside of their home countries. We would therefore recommend that you bring Euros which are widely accepted. Other currencies can be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to change.

The Imaginative Traveller recommends: During your stay in West Africa, you will notice a general lack of small change. We recommend maintaining a small supply of coins and small denomination notes.

XE.com is a useful site for currency conversion.

Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATMs

Banks and Bureau de Change facilities can generally only be found in larger cities such as Accra, Kumasi and Lome. It is advisable to exchange money at banks, in large hotels, and authorised Bureau de Change. It is possible to exchange cash at Accra airport on arrival, although a better exchange rate is available at the bank and in hotels. Traveller’s cheques can be difficult to exchange, especially away from the larger cities. ATMs are not common and are often not reliable, therefore you should not rely on them as a method of obtaining money.

We would recommend that you bring cash in Euros to ensure you have access to enough funds during your stay.

Note: Australian Dollar and Canadian Dollar traveller's cheques and cash will usually not be accepted.

The Pre-Departure Information that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains general information about organising your spending money. Your Tour Leader will be able to advise you on local facilities.

Working out your Budget

The Pre-Departure Information contains general information about the things you will need to consider when budgeting for your holiday. Below are some specific notes relevant to our tours in Ghana, Togo and Benin.

Entrance Fees

Entrance fees are included for all sites listed as part of the itinerary. There is a small selection of sites in Accra that you might want to visit if you are arriving before the tour starts or departing after it ends, including the National Museum and the Memorial Centre for Pan-African Culture. Entrance fees for sites are normally around US$1.

Meals

You will find the meal plan for your tour clearly indicated in the brochure and on your Trip Dossier. As you’ll mostly be staying in areas where there are limited options for meals, we have chosen to include many meals as part of the itinerary. However, there may be occasions when a meal is not included, such as in Kumasi or Sokode. Approximate costs for meals not included are shown below:

For a guide to the type of food you will find in West Africa see the Local Food & Drink section of this dossier.

Drinks

Tea and Coffee is always provided with breakfast. All other drinks (i.e. bottled water, soft drinks) are at your own expense. Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown below.

Note: Prices in restaurants, hotels, and in remote areas can be double those specified.

It is not recommended that you drink the local tap water in West Africa however bottled water and carbonated soft drinks are widely available throughout the country.

Local Transport

In Ghana, Togo and Benin, the most common method of getting around town is by taxi – either shared or private. Private taxis are more expensive than shared taxis, but do have the advantage of leaving when you want them to – shared taxis only leave when they have their full quota of passengers and can take some time to fill up depending upon the destination. On our Kingdoms of Gold trip, you won’t have a great deal of time to explore on your own, and so private taxis would usually be your best option. As a rough guideline, taxi journeys should not cost much more than US$10 per hour in Ghana, and around US$7 per hour in Togo and Benin. However, as prices can often change, it is a good idea to find out in advance from your Tour Leader or the hotel receptionist, approximately how much the fare should be for the journey you propose. You will almost certainly have to accept that you will pay more than locals do.

What to Take

The Pre-Departure Information that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains a comprehensive list of items that you should consider bringing with you. There are certain items of equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, towels) that you will need on some tours and not on others. Check your Trip Dossier for any special requirements.

Clothing

As a general guideline, clothing should be lightweight, loose fitting, hard-wearing and easily washed. As Ghana is warm all year round, cotton clothing is much more comfortable and practical than man-made materials like nylon.

While in the National Parks, you should wear natural, neutral colours – bright colours can make you stand out, meaning that you’re less likely to spot wildlife.

In general, shorts are acceptable, although there may be occasions when it is appropriate to where long trousers. Long trousers also provide better protection against insects and are recommended for nature walks. Your tour leader will be able to offer the best advice on this.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: Make sure you bring a few items of clothing which cover your shoulders and knees and also several outfits which cover your legs to the ankles and your arms past the elbows. A sarong is an invaluable item to carry as it can be used to instantly cover any exposed areas (i.e. head, legs). It also doesn’t go amiss to bring along a set of smart/casual clothes for the occasional night out.

In certain areas your Tour Leader may ask you to dress conservatively. Out of respect for local values, we ask that you follow your Tour Leader’s advice at all times.

Make sure you allow for climate changes and remember that even in very hot countries, night-time and early morning temperatures will be cooler so it is worth taking a fleece along.

Please note: you do not need a mosquito net on our Kingdoms of Gold tour.

Prepare Yourself
Whilst few of our tours can be described as physically demanding you will find all activities more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit and active.

Cultural & Environmental Guidelines

The Environment

Toilet Paper
Whenever you use a squat style toilet please place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin provided – DO NOT flush it down the toilet as this may block the sewerage system. You may also want to carry your own toilet paper as not all toilets will supply it.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: You may find it useful to take a supply of antiseptic wet wipes and sealable plastic bags to put your toilet paper in if it cannot be burnt / placed in a bin.

Litter
It is particularly important to take all rubbish and non-biodegradable items with you when you leave camp sites. Try to leave camp sites even cleaner than you found them! Although you may see many local people dropping litter in towns and villages, we would ask that you refrain from this and use proper waste disposal facilities.

Religion

Ghana has a mainly Christian population – a remnant from its days as a British colony. However, there are sizeable populations of Muslims, mainly in the north of the country, as well as those practising traditional beliefs.

Togo and Benin however are a different story. Most people here practice some form of animist belief, which can involve fetish, spirit and ancestor worship – often collectively known in the western world as voodoo. Ouidah in Benin, in particular, is renowned as a centre of this fascinating religion.

Etiquette & Customs

There are several simple rules of etiquette in West Africa and in most cases your Tour Leader will brief you accordingly. An important issue to remember is that pointing with your finger is considered to be very rude, and should definitely be avoided.

Photography

You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. You should also be aware that in these countries photography is not viewed in the same way as it is in your home country, and can sometimes give rise to suspicion – you should always seek your tour leader’s advice on guidelines for photography.

Begging

Begging is quite common in some areas of West Africa, especially those more frequently visited by tourists. Ultimately donations are a traveller's personal choice but in line with initiatives and government policy in many of our destinations, our recommendation is NOT to give money, pens, gifts or sweets as this encourages a begging mentality. If you do want to help it is probably better to give to a recognized charity. If you choose not to give simply say no with a smile and keep on walking. If you learn nothing else of the local language, learn to say ‘no thank you’!

Haggling

In many shops prices are not negotiable; however, haggling is expected for tourist souvenirs. The shop keeper or market trader will start with a high price which you are then expected to bargain down until you reach a fair price. If the seller accepts your price it is very bad form to not go through with the sale. Haggling should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun – it’s a great way of interacting with the local people.

Arrival

Arrival Transfers

An arrival transfer is included in the cost of the tour. Upon arrival at Accra Airport, please look out for our representative who will be holding a sign with ‘The Imaginative Traveller’ or your name on it. They will usually be waiting just outside the terminal building. Please make sure you take time to look around carefully for our representative with the sign. There may be a large crowd of people waiting, and it may take time to find them.

If several travellers on Imaginative Traveller tours are arriving on the same flight, the transfer representative may be taking you all together to the meeting point. Please be patient if you need to wait a few minutes for other travellers from the same flight.


The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: If you experience any problems with your luggage and are delayed in the baggage/customs area, please try to make contact with the transfer representative immediately to advise them of the problem and ensure they wait for you. You may need to ask permission of security to exit the customs/baggage hall and then re-enter.

Making Your Own Way

The Meeting Point for your tour should be clearly marked on your travel vouchers.

If you have not arranged an arrival transfer, then you should take a taxi to the meeting point hotel. Taxis can be found outside of the airport building. As prices can vary wildly, it’s worth asking around to obtain the best deal. Don’t be afraid to bargain! You should agree a fare with the driver before getting in. As a general rule, at the time of writing taxis cost around 20-25,000 cedis for the trip to the hotel.

On Tour

Safety

Ghana, Togo and Benin are generally safe countries to travel around providing travellers exercise a reasonable degree of common sense.

Try not to carry obvious valuables upon your person such as a camera around the neck, expensive wristwatches, or a bum bag containing your funds. Brand new clothes can also mark you out as a new arrival, and therefore, a prime target.

However, it’s important to note that the vast majority of travellers to these countries experience no problems.

Tour Leaders & Guides

Your Tour Leader's role is to ensure all aspects of the trip run smoothly. He/she will share their local knowledge, advise on how to fill your free time and co-ordinate the day to day running of the tour – although occasionally he/she may need your understanding if things do not go according to plan. If you have any problems on the tour, please let your Tour Leader know so that steps can be taken to put it right. Tour Leaders are supported by our ground agent.

Please note that some styles of trip, such as Imaginative Escapes or Imaginative Honeymoons, do not have a Tour Leader. However, there will be representatives on hand who will be able to assist you in arranging any excursions that you wish you take.

Accommodation

Our Kingdoms of Gold trip uses a variety of accommodation, from hotels through to tents, which we feel gives our travellers a real experience of the African bush. These would normally be two man dome tents. Mattresses are provided but you will need to bring a sleeping bag, and perhaps an inflatable pillow or fleece to use as a pillow – it is not possible to hire sleeping bags. Please bear in mind that washing facilities can often be very basic while camping.

We will also spend some nights staying in simple guesthouses. Please note that on these nights facilities will be fairly basic, but we believe that the fantastic surroundings will more than make up for this!

Our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness and location. In West Africa the standard of hotels may vary from region to region, generally they vary from good in the capital cities to basic in the smaller towns. However most will have private bathrooms, although not always with hot water, and some have bar / restaurant facilities. Please bear in mind that hotels can sometimes suffer from minor problems and technical difficulties.

At each hotel your Tour Leader will try to organise the rooming arrangements to suit everyone's requirements. If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a room with another group member of the same sex (unless you have paid a single supplement). If you are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot guarantee the availability of double beds.

Local Food & Drink

Food
Meals in West Africa consist of a serving of starch, usually rice or an Italian style polenta made up of maize, millet, yam and cassava served with a sauce which is often referred to as a 'soup'. Sauces will feature a range of different ingredients as each region has its own culinary specialities but common ingredients would be fish or meats, tomatoes, spinach and baobab leaves. Dishes you might spot include Jollof rice (a paella-like dish with meat) and on the coast lamounou déssi orsauce de poisson (fresh fish sauce). Probably the most well-known dish of all three countries is Fufu which is cassava, yam, plantain and manioc that has been cooked, pureed and mashed into a ball.

Drinks
The usual collection of soft drinks can be found in West Africa, and are widely available, as is bottled water. Tea and coffee are also readily available. Tea tends to be of the green variety, and coffee will almost always come from a jar – ‘real’ coffee is quite hard to come by.

West Africa has a good selection of local beers, perhaps the best of which are Star and Biere du Benin – bizarrely brewed in Togo. Palm wine, fermented from palm trees, is also a very popular choice. Imported beers and spirits are available in larger towns, but almost always cost more than their local equivalents.

Special Dietary Requirements

Vegetarians
Meat is often the main feature of a meal, and can be found in many dishes, even if only as a stock. Therefore, if you are a vegetarian you may experience a distinct lack of variety in the food available at meal times. Your Tour Leader will do their best to offer a vegetarian alternative, but your patience and understanding is requested.

Food Allergies
If you have food allergies or preferences, please make them known to your Tour Leader who will do their best to ensure that your requirements are met.

Please note: Unfortunately we can give no guarantee that special requirements can always be met.

The Imaginative Traveller: You should advise us at time of booking if you have any special dietary requirements. You may like to bring some snacks or supplements in case food choices are limited.

Communications

Email
Internet cafes can now be found in many towns in West Africa, although connection times can be slow and unreliable. The cost for an hour is generally around US$1 per hour. Please note however that as we often stay in smaller towns or are camping there will be very few opportunities to access the internet.

Phone
The phone system in West Africa is improving, although international calls are extremely expensive. A 3 minute call (to the UK) can cost up to approx. US$10. Your tour leader will be able to advise you on the best way to call home.

Post
The postal service is relatively good and stamps are available everywhere. An overseas stamp for postcards will cost approx. US$1.

Cameras

Availability of Film
Colour print camera film can be found in the larger towns in West Africa, however you should always check the expiry dates. Slide film, black and white film and video film can be more difficult to come by so it is best to bring your supply from home. Also please be aware that there will not be facilities to recharge digital cameras whilst camping and it is unlikely that you will be able to download digital photos, so ensure you bring an adequate supply of memory cards.

General Information

Weather

West Africa’s weather alternates between wet and dry seasons. Although precise timings vary from country to country, generally speaking Ghana has two wet seasons – one from March to June, with a shorter one in September and October. Benin also has two wet seasons – in Lome they follow the same pattern, although the north has a longer period from April to September. In the south of Benin, the rains fall from April to July and October to November, and in the north it’s wet from May to October. From December until March the Harmattan, a cool wind blows down from the Sahara, bringing with it a relief from the heat but also dust. The sky can be hazy during this period.

Having said that, it rarely rains all day in the rainy season, and normally there would be short downpours each day which stop after a few hours.

The following chart shows average daily temperatures (in degrees celsius):

City / Temp Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Accra 28 29 29 29 28 27 26 25 26 27 28 18
Lome 27 28 29 29 28 27 26 26 26 27 28 27
Porto Novo 26 28 28 28 26 26 25 25 25 26 26 26

West Africa Meteorological Authority

Holidays

Islamic Holidays
Islamic Holidays are fixed in accordance with the Lunar Calendar. Approximate 2007 dates are:

Other holidays vary from country to country, and are as follows:

Ghana

National Holidays

Togo

National Holidays

Benin

National Holidays

West Africa Public Holidays

Suggested Reading

Guidebooks

Background Reading

Useful Phrases

With so many different languages and dialects prevalent in Ghana, Togo and Benin, it might be difficult getting to grips with the practicalities of everyday conversation. Ghana’s official language is English, while Benin and Togo use French. However, a small knowledge of local languages will go a long way, and will help break the ice with any local people. We’ve included a few basic phrases in Ewe and Twi', two of the more common local languages, as well as some French, to help you get by.

Ewe

Twi

French

French Numbers

Contact Details

UK Office

The Imaginative Traveller
1 Betts Avenue
Martlesham Heath
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP5 3RH
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1473 667337
Fax: +44 (0)1473 614566

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