Bhutan Country Dossier

"When I was a teenager I used to spend hours in the travel section of our local bookshop, scouring books for exciting pictures of all the countries that I wanted to visit…"

"The country that appealed most of all was Bhutan, a tiny Himalayan Kingdom hidden in the heart of the mountains of Asia, open only to a few visitors every year. Ten years later I was lucky enough to escort a group to Bhutan and nervously wondered whether it would live up to a decade of expectation. It did! Bhutan is, quite simply, one of the most wonderful countries you could ever hope to visit. Yes, it is extraordinarily expensive to visit, but once you are there you can instantly see the benefits of keeping tourist numbers low by keeping prices high. The scenery is completely unspoiled and the people are friendly and welcoming. The monasteries are fully functional and we spent many an afternoon sitting in a temple lit by flickering yak butter candles, as monks of all ages chanted prayers. We hiked up into the hills one afternoon and were welcomed into a tiny village with stunning views over the mountains. We stopped in small towns with exquisitely painted houses and haggled for jewellery in tiny markets. Every day we did something new, every day I saw another scene from that book and every day I fell just that little bit more in love with this country."

Liddy Pleasants, Head of Operations – The Imaginative Traveller

• Factfile
• Preparing to go
• Money
• Cultural & Environmental Guidelines
• Arrival
• On Tour
• General Information

Bhutan Dossier Note: As all of our tours in Bhutan begin in India you will need to read both this dossier and the India Country Dossier for full details of visa requirements, costs and arrival transfers.

Factfile

Capital: Thimpu
Official Language: Dzongkha (a Tibetan dialect)
Religions: Buddhist 70%, Hindu 24%, Muslim 5%, and other 1%
People: There are two main population groups in Bhutan; the Drukpa (67%) of Tibetan and Monpa origin and the Lhotsampa (30%) of Nepalese origin. The other 3% comprise of indigenous tribal groups.
Voltage: 220-240 Volts (although be prepared for voltage instability). Sockets are mostly of the European two pronged round pin variety, but odd sizes are common. Power cuts are common in more remote regions and occur occasionally in major towns.

Preparing to go

Visas

Visas are required by everyone visiting Bhutan (except Indian nationals who are issued a 14 day permit on arrival). Visas are issued on arrival subject to certain requirements having been met in advance. Visas will not be issued on arrival if these requirements have not been met.

The Imaginative Traveller will arrange a visa clearance authorisation for group members in advance. For this we will need to have your passport details (name, nationality, date of birth, passport number, date of issue and expiry) at least one month prior to departure. Please note: Without this authorisation number it is impossible to enter the country.

The actual visa endorsement is stamped into your passport on arrival in Bhutan. You should bring 2 passport photos with you to complete the rest of the formalities at the border. The visa itself costs US$20 and can only be paid for at the border in US dollars.

Please note regulations and costs can change frequently so it is advisable to check the current rules at your time of booking.

Money

Local Currency

The monetary unit in Bhutan is the Ngultrum (Nu) which is divided into 100 chetrum. The Ngultrum is fixed to the Indian Rupee (1 Nu = 1 INR).
Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:

• 1 Pound Sterling = 81 Nu
• 1 US Dollar = 41 Nu
• 1 Euro = 63 Nu

At present there are no restrictions on the amount of foreign currency that a visitor may bring into Bhutan although very large sums should be declared on arrival. Indian Rupees (INR) are widely accepted in Bhutan even though in theory it is illegal to export them from India. (Note: Ngultrums are not accepted in India)

XE.com is a useful site for currency conversion.

Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATMs

You can change money and traveller's cheques without too much trouble at counters at the airport, larger hotels (which often offer a faster service) and banks in major cities, e.g. Thimpu, Paro and Phuentsholing. Outside main towns changing money can be a very time consuming business. We recommend that you take either US$ or GB£ currency and travellers cheques (in well known brands such as American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa etc). However it is possible to exchange other major currencies (please note Scottish Pounds are not recognised outside of the UK).

There are NO ATMs in Bhutan and credit cards are accepted at very few establishments. If you plan to make a major purchase (such as art or handicrafts), you may wish to consider brining US Dollars cash (as most shops will accept this) to avoid changing large amounts into Ngultrums.

Left over Ngultrums can be exchanged back on production of your original encashment receipt (although usually only into US dollars). You will not be able to exchange any Ngultrums outside of Bhutan.

Your Tour Leader will be able to advise you of the most effective places to change money. The Pre-Departure Booklet that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains general information about organising your spending money.

Working out your Budget

The Pre-Departure Booklet contains general information about the things you will need to consider when budgeting for your holiday. Below are some specific notes relevant to our tours in Bhutan, however almost everything is included in the tour price and it is possible that you will spend very little aside from souvenirs and drinks.

Entrance Fees

In Bhutan entrance fees are included for all sites listed as part of the itinerary.

Optional Excursions

All of our itineraries include some free time, the amount of which usually depends on the style of tour you are travelling on (Adventurer trips generally have more than Traveller). If you wish to take optional excursions your Tour Leader will be able to advise you of the possibilities in each area.

Meals

You will find the meal plan for your tour clearly indicated in the brochure and on your Trip Dossier. All meals are included in Bhutan.

For a guide to the type of food you will find in Bhutan see the Local Food & Drink section of this dossier.

Drinks
Tea and coffee is always provided with breakfast on Traveller tours. All other drinks (i.e. bottled water, soft drinks) are at your own expense. Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown below.
Note: Prices in restaurants and hotels can be as much as double those specified.

Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown below:

• 1l of water: US$0.30
• 30cl bottle of soft drink: US$0.40
• 50cl bottle of beer: US$1

It is not recommended that you drink the local tap water in Bhutan; however bottled water (often imported from India) carbonated soft drinks and fruit juices are widely available throughout the country.

Local Transport

You will probably find the best way to get around Bhutan's cities and towns is to walk. Even in Thimpu, almost everything is within walking distance. For greater distances, or when your legs get tired, taxis are the best way of getting around. In Bhutan taxi meters are for show only so it is a good idea to find out, from your Tour Leader or the hotel receptionist, approximately how much the fare should be for the journey you propose (a local journey within Thimpu should cost approx. US$1-1.50) however you will almost certainly have to accept that you will pay more than the Bhutanese do.

Tipping Kitty

Your Tour Leader will collect and administer a tipping kitty (please see your Trip Dossier for a guide to how much to allow for this) to help avoid embarrassment and ensure that all services are properly tipped for.

Traditionally gifts, such as textiles, are given when visiting a Bhutanese home. You may want to consider bringing duty free spirits or fancy argyle socks (very popular) from home in case you have the opportunity to visit someone’s home.

What to Take

The Pre Departure Booklet that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains a comprehensive list of items that you should consider bringing with you. There are also certain items of specific equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, walking boots) that you will need on some tours and not on others. Check your Trip Dossier for these special requirements.

Clothing

As a general guideline, clothing should be lightweight, loose fitting, hard-wearing and easily washed. Even in the summer months Paro and Thimpu can be cool and in the winter the weather can be very cold (particularly in the mountains). Make sure you allow for climate changes and remember that even when daytime temperatures are quite high, night-time and early morning temperatures can be extremely cold. You will generally find it is better to have several thin layers rather than one thick layer as it gives you more flexibility and warmth. A fleece can be invaluable and double as a pillow.

You should also bear in mind that Bhutan has conservative attitudes towards dress – the country has a national dress code and people always look smart and neat so scruffiness (as well as revealing clothing) will look out of place. Women, and also to a certain extent men, will find that the way they dress will often determine the degree of respect they receive from both men and women and both sexes should avoid wearing shorts in towns.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: Make sure you bring lots of clothing that covers shoulders and knees and also more than one outfit which covers your legs to ankles and your arms past the elbows. It also doesn’t go amiss to bring along at least one set of smart clothes.

In certain areas and at religious sites (and particularly when visiting dzongs – see below) your Tour Leader may ask you to dress conservatively. Out of respect for local values, we ask that you follow your Tour Leader’s advice at all times.

Bhutanese National Dress
It is compulsory for all Bhutanese to wear national dress in schools, government offices and formal occasions. This distinctive clothing is characterised by the colourfully patterned gho (long robe) for men and kira (long dress) for women. Although a complicated ensemble, the Bhutanese are flattered by visitors who make an effort to wear their national dress and are more than willing to help you buy, and put on, a gho or kira.

Dzong Clothing
Dzongs (fort-monasteries) are found all over Bhutan and you will usually only be able to enter if you are correctly dressed. Bhutanese people must wear the full national dress, while the guidelines for visitors state that men should wear trousers and a shirt with a collar and women should wear a dress or smart trousers.

Luggage and Load Limits
Druk Air impose a strict 20kg weight limit. Whilst it may be possible to pay for excess baggage, this may not leave Bhutan at the same time that you do so we advise against this. It is possible to leave a bag in the hotel in Calcutta if you do not wish to take all your belongings to Bhutan.

Cultural & Environmental Guidelines

The Environment

Toilets
Wherever you use a western or squat style toilet remember to place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin provided – DO NOT flush it down the toilet as this may block the sewerage system. You may also want to carry your own toilet paper as not all toilets will supply it.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: You may find it useful to take along a supply of antiseptic wet wipes or water free soap to help with hygiene in more remote places.

Religion

Travellers should respect that religion is an inherent part of Bhutanese life. We encourage travellers to experience religious festivals and visit temples but ask that you follow religious rules such as removing your shoes and refraining from taking photographs at certain sites. At Buddhist temples you should always move in a clockwise direction. Your Tour Leader will be on hand to advise you of local sensitivities.

Etiquette and Customs

Although staunchly traditional and devout in their religious beliefs the Bhutanese are relatively open and liberal people. Having said that, there are a few simple rules of etiquette which are worth noting. You should avoid pointing the soles of your feet at anyone – although this may seem unlikely you could inadvertently do this while laying down or sitting with your feet up. It is also important for Bhutanese people not to lose face so you should never react to a frustrating situation with anger – instead be patient and smile.

Bargaining

In most shops there is no fixed price so the shop keeper will start with a high price which you are then expected to bargain down until you reach a fair price. Bargaining should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun – you will find most shop owners are very friendly.

Arrival

Arrival Transfers

As all of our tours in Bhutan begin in India please refer to the India Country Dossier for details of arrival transfers from Calcutta airport.

Making Your Own Way

The Meeting Point for your tour should be clearly marked on your travel vouchers. A complete list of all meeting point hotels can also be found at www.imtravdossiers.com

It is a relatively simple matter to make your own way to the meeting point if you are not being transferred. Please see the India Country Dossier for full details of transport options.

Customs in Bhutan
On arrival in Bhutan you will be required to complete a baggage declaration form. For travellers the main purpose of this form is to ensure you take out with you any expensive items that you bring in. You should declare all expensive equipment (e.g. video cameras, mobile phones, etc). Customs officials may then want to see the items before endorsing the form and returning it to you. Make sure you keep hold of this form as you will need it on departure. You may also need to show all the items you originally listed. If you lose your form please let your Tour Leader know as soon as possible.

Departure

Departure Tax

There is a departure tax of 800 Nu (USD $18) payable prior to check in at Paro Airport.

On Tour

Safety

Most people find that Bhutan is an incredibly friendly and hospitable country and feel quite comfortable wandering around alone during the day. However, as with any country you are not familiar with, it is recommended that you exercise more caution at night.

Timekeeping

It is worth remembering that relaxed attitudes to time and efficiency ensure that things do not function like clockwork, so please don’t expect them to!

Tour Leaders & Guides

Your Tour Leader's role is to ensure all aspects of the trip run smoothly. He/she will share their local knowledge, advise on how to fill your free time and co-ordinate the day to day running of the tour – although occasionally he/she may need your understanding if things do not go according to plan. In Bhutan our tours are also accompanied by experienced and professional trained local guides provided by Bhutan's Department of Tourism. If you have any problems on the tour, please let your Tour Leader know so that steps can be taken to put it right. Tour Leaders are supported by our regionally based office staff and, in most cases, a locally based manager.

Please note that some styles of trip, such as Imaginative Escapes or Imaginative Honeymoons, do not have a Tour Leader. However, there will be representatives on hand who will be able to assist you in arranging any excursions that you wish you take.

Accommodation

Our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness. On Adventurer tours hotels are simple, but comfortable. Bathroom facilities may sometimes be shared and rooms may sometimes be multi share rather than twin. Hotels on Traveller tours almost always have private bathrooms, air conditioning and bar / restaurant facilities. Please bear in mind that hotels can sometimes suffer from minor problems and technical difficulties.

At each hotel your Tour Leader will try to organise the rooming arrangements to suit everyone's requirements. If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a room with another group member of the same sex (unless you have paid a single supplement). If you are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot guarantee the availability of double beds.

Note: Single supplements are only applicable to single travellers who wish to have their own room. Single supplements are also only available on Traveller tours and are not applicable on overnight boats, trains and while camping.

Laundry

A laundry service is available in most of the hotels we use although outside Thimpu they may not have dryers so the speed of service will depend on the sunshine.

Local Food & Drink

Food
Generally meals served at hotels are buffet style and offer a selection of western, Indian, Chinese and Bhutanese dishes. Traditional Bhutanese food always features chillies, ema datse, in fact, uses hot green chillies as the vegetable rather than seasoning! Other popular dishes (with chillies) are phak sha laphu, stewed pork with radish, no sha huentseu, stewed beef with spinach, and bja sha maroo, chicken in garlic and butter sauce. You will find that most of your meals revolve around chicken, pork, and cheese or vegetables and are accompanied by rice – either white or the locally produced Bhutanese red variety, which has a nutty taste. Buckwheat is also used to produce pancakes and noodles.

Tibetan dishes including momos, which are steamed dumplings with a vegetable or meat filling and thumkpa, a noodle soup are also common in Bhutan.

Drinks
Tea and instant coffee are readily available, as is the Tibetan style hot butter tea sud-ja (tea served with salt and butter). Bottled water and soft drinks – Pepsi cola, lemonade, orangeade – can be found almost anywhere, as can fruit juices of which apple deserves special mention.

Alcoholic drinks like beer, rum and whisky are imported from India and relatively cheap. Some hotels also have international brands which are more expensive. Bang chhang is a locally produced warm beer made from wheat and Arra is a more typical Asian distilled “rice wine” fire water.

Special Dietary Requirements

Vegetarians
In Bhutan there is a good variety of vegetarian food available – even if much of it is made with chillies! Unusual ingredients such as nettles, ferns and orchids may also appear in traditional Bhutanese vegetarian dishes.

Food Allergies
If you have food allergies or preferences, please make them known to your Tour Leader who will do their best to ensure that your requirements are met.

Please note: Unfortunately we can give no guarantee that special requirements can always be met.

Smoking

Bhutan has become the first country in the world to ban smoking. Tobacco and tobacco related products are not available anywhere in Bhutan. Visitors can import a limited number of cigarettes/cigars for personal use, but these are heavily taxed (100% sales duty, plus 100% customs duty) on arrival.

Communications

Email
Internet cafes can now be found in larger towns. The average cost for an hour is approx. US$7 in a hotel and US$4 in an Internet cafe.

Phone
The Bhutanese phone system is fairly good. There are many public call offices (PCOs) throughout the country and some offer ISD calls overseas. Most hotels can also arrange international calls. A 3 minute call (to the UK) will cost approx. US$12 from a hotel and approx. US$6 from a PCO.

Post
The postal service is fairly good and stamps are available from hotels and post offices. An overseas stamp will cost approx. US$0.40.

Cameras

Availability of Film
Camera film can be found in Bhutan but there is limited choice. Therefore we recommend you bring your supply from home.

General Information

Weather

The southern part of Bhutan is tropical and the east generally warmer than the west. The central valleys enjoy a semi-tropical climate with very cool winters, whilst Thimpu and Tongsa suffer a harsher climate enduring heavy monsoon rains in the summer and heavy snow falls in the winter (often blocking the passes leading into the central valleys).

Winter in Bhutan is from mid-November until mid-March and at this time of year the climate is dry, with daytime temperatures of 16-18C. At night these fall to below zero. The monsoon usually arrives in mid-June and rain falls mainly in the afternoons and evenings. At the end of September, after the last of the heavy rains, autumn suddenly arrives offering a magnificent season for trekking lasting until mid-November.

The following shows average daytime temperatures in Thimpu (degrees celcius):

Bhutan Meteorological Authority

Holidays

National Holidays

• Coronation Day - 2 Jun
• King’s Birthday - 11 Nov
• Bhutan National Day - 17 Dec

Festivals

Most dzongs have an annual festival, the largest of which is the tshechu. The tshechu is a series of dances performed over a number of days in honour of Guru Rinpoche. Festival dates vary according to the Bhutanese calendar and can differ by two weeks or more from dates printed here.

• Independence Day - Aug 8
• Birthday of HM Jigme Singye Wangchuck - Nov 11, 12, 13
• National Day of Bhutan - Dec 17
• Punakha Dromche - Feb 13-17
• Chorten Kora Tshechu - Feb 23 & Mar 3
• Gom Kora Tshechu - Mar 18-20
• Chukha Tshechu - Mar 18-20
• Paro Tshechu - Mar 21-25
• Ura Yakchoe - Apr 19-23
• Nimalung Tshechu - Jun 15-17
• Kurje Tshechu - Jun 17
• Wangdi Tshechu - Sept 11-13
• Thimpu Tshechu - Sept 13-15
• Tamshing Phala Choepa - Sept 12-14
• Tangbi Mani - Sept 17-19
• Jambey Lhakhang Drup - Oct 17-21 & Nov 15- 19
• Prakar Tshechu - Oct 18-20 & Nov 16-20
• Mongar Tshechu - Dec 7-10
• Tashigang Tshechu - Dec 8-11

Bhutan Public Holidays

Suggested Reading

Guidebooks

• Tibet Handbook with Bhutan (Footprint Guides)
• Bhutan Lonely Planet

Background Reading

• So Close to Heaven (by Barbara Crossette)
• Beyond the Sky and the Earth: a Journey into Bhutan (by Jamie Zeppa)
• Dreams of the Peaceful Dragon (by Katie Hickman)
• Joanna Lumley in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon (by Joanna Lumley)
• Hero with a Thousand Eyes (by Karma Ura)

Useful Phrases in Dzongkha

Many public signs, books and menus throughout Bhutan are in English and you should have little difficulty being understood in most circumstances, however it will always be appreciated if you learn a few words of Dzongkha.

Dzongkha is a Tibetan dialect and many sounds can only be approximated in English. However vowels and most consonants are pronounced as in English.

The “h” in the combinations: dh, gh, kh, ph & th is aspirated, i.e. merely a puff of air after the initial consonant. If you find this difficult just pronounce the initial letter. Ch and sh are not aspirated, but pronounced as in as in church and ship respectively.

• Hello – Kuzo zangpo la
• Goodbye – legzhembe joen (person leaving) legzhembe zhug (person staying)
• How are you? – chhoe gadebe yoe?
• I’m fine – nga leshom bera yoe
• Thank you – kadinchhey
• Yes – ing, yoe
• No – me
• How much is it? (price) – dilu gadechi mo?
• Tea – Ja
• Water – Chhu

Dzongkha Numbers

• 1 - chi
• 2 - nyi
• 3 - sum
• 4 - zshi
• 5 - nga
• 6 - dru
• 7 - duen
• 8 - gye
• 9 - gu
• 10 - chutham
• 11 - cuci
• 12 - cunyi
• 13 - cusu
• 20 - nyishu/khachi
• 30 - sumcu
• 40 - zhipcu/khanyi
• 50 - ngapcu
• 100 - chigja/khenga
• 1000 - chigton/tongthra chi

Contact Details

Local Office
The Imaginative Traveller
C/o International Treks & Tours
THIMPHU
Bhutan
Tel: +975 2 326591 / 326847
Fax: +975 2 324963

Lango, PARO
Tel: +975 8 271647 / 271646 / 271648
Fax: +975 8 271466

UK Office
The Imaginative Traveller
1 Betts Avenue
Martlesham Heath
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP5 3RH
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1473 667337
Fax: +44 (0)1473 614566

24hr Emergency Contact
(MOB): +91 93261 15681 (INDIA)