Iran Country Dossier

"Iran, it has to be said, has been one of the best adventures I have ever had."

"It has been surprisingly easy to travel around and the people are just so nice. I have been constantly invited to people's homes and made to feel so welcome. Wearing the hejāb (headscarf) has taken some getting used to - but I try to tell myself that I look like Grace Kelly and then I catch sight of myself in a shop window and realise the heat has gone to my head!

Whether sipping chāy in a traditional tea-house, wandering through ancient Persian cities or just relaxing under Esfahan's bridges, listening to old men tell stories and sing folk songs, Iran really is the experience of a lifetime and another trip is definitely in the offing!"

Marnie Rae Downer – Imaginative Traveller, Tour Leader

• Factfile
• Preparing to go
• Money
• Cultural & Environmental Guidelines
• Arrival
• On Tour
• General Information

Factfile

Capital: Tehran
Official Language: Farsi (Persian) Others: Turkish (Azari), Kurdish, Gilak
Religions: Muslim 98% (90% Shia Muslim and 8% Sunni Muslim), other 2% (Zoroastrian, Jewish, Christians).
Voltage: 220 volts. Sockets are of the European, two-pronged variety.

Preparing to go

Visas

Visas are required by all nationalities. Two passport photos are required and women must be wearing a headscarf in these photos.

You will also need the official visa authorisation, in the form of a Reference Number, issued by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tehran, before you can apply for the Iranian visa. This will be supplied by Imaginative Traveller approximately 1 month prior to the date of entry into Iran. These guidelines are based on information supplied by the Iranian Embassy in London. If you are applying for your visa elsewhere please check details with your selected embassy.

Please note: We cannot request the visa authorisation until we have full passport and client details from you.

• Name, surname and title
• Father’s name
• Date and place of birth
• Nationality
• Passport number
• Occupation
• Have you ever visited Iran before? If so, when and for how long?
• Where would you like to apply for your Iranian Visa (i.e. Which Iranian Embassy/Consulate)
• Total no. of days to be spent in Iran

Please note: Entry to Iran will be refused if your passport contains evidence of travel to Israel, even if you have been granted an Iranian visa. Note this is not confined to an Israeli visa stamp. It also includes Egyptian & Jordanian entry or departure stamps obtained at the land border with Israel.

Some nationalities also need to provide a copy of the passport. We will also need to know the embassy at which you are to apply for the visa. The visa authorisation is embassy-specific, so you cannot subsequently change your mind about where you will get the visa. It is your responsibility to provide us with these details in full. Failure to do so will mean that we cannot provide the visa authorisation. If any of this information subsequently changes an administration fee of GBP25 will apply.

Due to recent changes in the Iranian visa process, we are now only able to request the visa authorisation 1 month before the tour departure date. If you are leaving your home country more than two weeks before your tour starts, please contact your booking agent for advice.

Please check that the embassy issues you with a tourist visa – the stamp in your passport MUST state specifically that the visa is a tourist one. If this is not the case, the hotels are obliged to charge business travel rates, which are substantially higher.

A visa will be refused if your passport contains evidence of travel to Israel. Note that this is not confined to an Israeli visa stamp. It also includes Egyptian or Jordanian entry stamps obtained at a land border with Israel.

If the visa application form requires a contact address in the destination, please give either your meeting point hotel or the address of our local contact. It is your responsibility to ensure that you are in possession of the correct visas for your holiday and onward travel. The Imaginative Traveller cannot accept responsibility for anyone who is refused entry to a country because they lack the correct documentation.

We will request the authorisation for your visa as soon as we are able, currently not earlier than 1 month prior to the date of entry. Once you have the authorisation it should take no more than 5 working days to obtain the visa.

Important note for American travellers

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tehran requires American visitors to pay for an additional guide if they book extra accommodation at the start or end of their tour or if they book the Mashad extension. Imaginative Traveller arranges for the guide through our ground agent but American travellers will need to pay for the guide in advance. This is a pre-requisite for obtaining the Iranian visa authorisation and is out of the control of Imaginative Traveller.

Money

Local Currency

The official monetary unit in Iran is the Iranian Rial, although Iranians will often refer to the toman, a unit of 10 Rials. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:

• 1 Pound Sterling = 18,207 Rials
• 1 US Dollar = 9,298 Rials
• 1 Euro = 14,313 Rials

XE.com is a useful site for currency conversion.

Currency Declaration

Upon arrival in Iran it is compulsory to declare all foreign currency taken into the country. This should be done by completing a currency declaration form at the Bank Melli branch at Tehran Airport which is located immediately after Immigration.

Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATMs

The banking system in Iran is entirely state owned. Money exchange services can be found at banks and many of the hotels we use. You should change some money in to Iranian Rials at the airport just in case other exchange facilities in the city are closed when you arrive. It is extremely difficult to change traveller's cheques in Iran (especially outside Tehran) so it is essential to carry the majority of your funds in cash (preferably US dollars). No ATMs are available and credit cards are generally not accepted in shops and restaurants, although may be in mid-range and top-end hotels.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: Bring cash in US dollars as traveller's cheques are very difficult to change.

It is advisable to keep all your exchange receipts as you may be required to show these upon exiting Iran. You should also be aware that it is nearly impossible to change Rials back into hard currency, so try not to change more than you need.

The Pre-Departure Booklet that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains general information about organising your spending money. Your Tour Leader will be able to advise you on local facilities.

Working out your Budget

The Pre-Departure Booklet contains general information about the things you will need to consider when budgeting for your holiday. Below are some specific notes relevant to our tours in Iran.

Entrance Fees

Although Traveller trips include entrance fees to all sites specified in your itinerary there are additional ancient sites that you may like to visit. Adventurer trips do not include any entrance fees. The average entrance fee is approx US$1 with the most expensive being US$10.

Optional Excursions

All of our itineraries include some free time, the amount of which usually depends on the style of tour you are travelling on (Adventurer trips generally have more than Traveller). If you wish to take optional excursions your Tour Leader will be able to advise you of the possibilities in each area.

Meals

You will find the meal plan for your tour clearly indicated in the brochure and on your Trip Dossier. Breakfast is provided each day on most tours, and many tours also include a number of dinners. Lunches are rarely included to give you more freedom. Approximate costs for meals and snacks not included are shown below:

• Simple snack: US$3-4
• Light meal: US$6-8
• Fancy restaurant: US$12-20

For a guide to the type of food you will find in Iran see the Local Food & Drink section of this dossier.

Drinks
Tea and Coffee is always provided with breakfast. All other drinks (i.e. bottled water, soft drinks) are at your own expense. Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown below.

Note: Prices in restaurants and hotels can be as much as double those specified.

• 1.5l of water: US$0.75
• 30cl soft drink: US$0.50

It is not recommended that you drink the local tap water in Iran. However bottled water, carbonated soft drinks and fruit juices are widely available throughout the country.

Local Transport

In most cases it is easy to get around Iran's cities and towns on foot. Alternatively taxis are the most effective method of local transport. It is difficult to give an exact guide to taxi fares but local journeys within a city shouldn't cost more than US$2-3 (but can be as little as US$0.10). A taxi from our hotel in Tehran to the airport will cost approx. US$7-10.

What to Take

The Pre-Departure Booklet that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains a comprehensive list of items that you should consider bringing with you. There are certain items of equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, towels) that you will need on some tours and not on others. Check your Trip Dossier for any special requirements. There are also certain items that you MUST NOT bring into Iran (see the 'What not to Take' section below for details)

Clothing

A strict dress code is enforced in Iran and you will be refused entry to the country upon arrival (and onto Iran Air flights) if you do not observe the dress regulations.

Men
Men should wear full length trousers and preferably long sleeved shirts. Short sleeved shirts are acceptable, but you will almost certainly look out of place as most Iranian men wear long sleeves. Long sleeves must be worn at religious sites.

Women
By Iranian law any female over the age of seven must observe the hejab – modest dress (i.e. long coat) and a headscarf at all times. On arrival women must be covered from head to toe in loose fitting clothes (which show no hint of the shape of your body), preferably in subdued colours. A headscarf should be any colour except red and tied under the chin. It is acceptable for some hair to be shown although in more traditional areas all hair must be covered. Any make up and jewellery worn should be in moderation.

Many Iranian women wear western clothing underneath an inexpensive full-length lightweight coverall called a mantor (as well as a headscarf) when in public. To make following the dress code easier many travellers choose to buy their own mantor at the start of the tour. Your Tour Leader will be able to advise you about this locally.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: Regardless of whether you plan to buy a mantor it is a good idea to pack a long (at least knee length) dark lightweight coat in your hand luggage to wear on arrival.

Underneath the mantor (or coat) women must wear long trousers or a long skirt but can wear whatever they choose on top. In Iran's hot summer months lightweight, loose fitting, cotton clothing is recommended.

General
Feet and ankles should be covered and both men and women should avoid wearing sandals without socks.

Make sure you allow for climate changes and remember that even in very hot countries, night-time and early morning temperatures can be cold. Both men and women will generally find it is better to have several thin layers rather than one thick layer as it gives you more flexibility.

Out of respect for local values, it is important that you follow your Tour Leader’s advice at all times.

What NOT to Take

Alcohol
Alcohol is strictly prohibited in Iran and severe penalties will be incurred by anyone attempting to bring it into the country.

Literature
Certain controversial literature is banned in Iran and serious penalties could be imposed on anyone attempting to bring books of this nature into the country. Two examples of such literature are any works by Salman Rushdie, and 'Not Without My Daughter' by Betty Mahmoudy. Customs officials may also confiscate books, newspapers and magazines featuring pictures of people in immodest dress/poses (e.g. fashion magazines).

Prepare Yourself
Whilst few of our tours can be described as physically demanding you will find all activities more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit and active.

Cultural & Environmental Guidelines

The Environment

Toilets
Wherever you go to the toilet remember to place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin provided – DO NOT flush it down the toilet as this may block the sewerage system. You will almost always find a rubbish bin next to the toilet however you may find it useful to carry a supply of small plastic bags to put your toilet paper in if a rubbish bin is not provided. You may also want to carry your own toilet paper as not all toilets will supply it.

Religion

We encourage travellers to visit mosques and experience religious festivals, such as the Muslim holy fasting month of Ramadan, as a visit to the Middle East during this time will give you a whole different perspective. However we ask that you follow religious rules such as removing your shoes when visiting a mosque (or a private house). Your Tour Leader will be on hand to advise you of local sensitivities. If you would like to know more about Ramadan or you are travelling at this time please consult our special Ramadan Information Sheet (this can be found on the download pages of our website).

Etiquette & Customs

In most cases your Tour Leader will brief you on etiquette accordingly; however there are a couple of good points which are worth noting;

When entering a shop, a greeting or an effort to make small talk will always go down well. However it is not a good idea to be the first to talk about politics. Subjects such as feminism and atheism should not be broached and criticism of any of the ayatollahs or the prophets of Islam is an offence. Open displays of affection (such as kissing and holding hands) are only acceptable between members of the same sex (but are not signs of homosexuality).

Never turn your back on anyone and avoid pointing the soles of your feet at anyone. This may seem unlikely to happen but you could inadvertently do this while laying down or sitting with your feet up.

Photography

You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. It is wise to be careful about photographing women, particularly if you are male.

Begging

Begging is common throughout the Middle East. Ultimately donations are a travellers personal choice, however in line with initiatives and government policy in many of our destinations, our recommendation is NOT to give money, pens, gifts or sweets as this encourages a begging mentality and is largely ineffectual. If you do want to help it is probably better to give to a recognised charity. If you choose not to give simply say no with a smile and keep on walking. If you learn nothing else of the local language, learn to say ‘no thank you’!

Haggling

Haggling is a way of life in the Middle East. In the shops there are no fixed prices so the shop keeper will start with a high price which you are then expected to haggle down until you reach a fair price. Haggling should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun – you will find most shop owners are very friendly and will probably invite you in for a cup of tea to break the ice before the haggling starts!

Arrival

Arrival Transfers

Upon arrival at Tehran International Airport, please look for our representative who will be holding a sign with The Imaginative Traveller / Arg-e-Jadid and/or your name on it. He should be waiting for you after you have passed through Immigration but before you reach Customs. Please note that we are able to offer free arrival transfers from both Tehran International Airport (THR) and Imam Khomeini Airport (IKA).

Making Your Own Way

The Meeting Point for your tour should be clearly marked on your travel vouchers.

At Tehran International Airport, you will find a 24 hour taxi service. The cost of a taxi from the airport to our hotels in Tehran should be approx. US$7-10. You may come across other people offering cheaper transfers but we recommend that you use a proper taxi (look for cars with a TAXI logo).

Currency Declaration

Upon arrival in Iran it is compulsory to declare all foreign currency taken into the country. This should be done by completing a currency declaration form at the Bank Melli branch at Tehran Airport which is located immediately after Immigration.

On Tour

Safety

Most people find that Iran is a very friendly and hospitable country and feel quite comfortable wandering around alone during the day. However, as with any country you are not familiar with (and in particular in large cities such as Tehran), it is recommended that you exercise more caution at night and generally take taxis rather than walk.

In Tehran you should be wary of people impersonating police officers – particularly if you are walking alone. Do not hand over your passport or any valuables until you have seen their ID / official papers. If you in any doubt call another uniformed police officer if you see one or offer to walk with them to the nearest police station – don't get into their car.

Tour Leaders & Guides

Your Tour Leaders role is to ensure all aspects of the trip run smoothly. He/she will share their local knowledge, advise on how to fill your free time and co-ordinate the day to day running of the tour – although occasionally he/she may need your understanding if things do not go according to plan. If you have any problems on the tour, please let your Tour Leader know so that steps can be taken to put it right. Tour Leaders are supported by our regionally based office staff and, in most cases, a locally based manager.

Please note that some styles of trip, such as Imaginative Escapes or Imaginative Honeymoons, do not have a Tour Leader. However, there will be representatives on hand who will be able to assist you in arranging any excursions that you wish you take.

Accommodation

Our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness. On Adventurer tours hotels are simple, but comfortable. Bathroom facilities may sometimes be shared and rooms may sometimes be multi-share rather than twin. Hotels on Traveller tours almost always have private bathrooms, air-conditioning and restaurant facilities. Please bear in mind that hotels can sometimes suffer from minor problems and technical difficulties.

At each hotel your Tour Leader will try to organise the rooming arrangements to suit everyone's requirements. If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a room with another group member of the same sex (unless you have paid a single supplement*). If you are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot guarantee the availability of double beds.

*Note: Single supplements are only applicable to single travellers who wish to have their own room. Single supplements are also only available on Traveller tours and are not applicable on overnight boats, trains and while camping.

Laundry

A laundry service cannot be guaranteed in every hotel (although inexpensive laundries can be found in most Iranian cities). You may want to bring travel wash (and a universal plug) with you just in case.

Local Food & Drink

Food
Iranian cuisine is delicious and generally very healthy. There is heavy emphasis on rice, bread, fresh vegetables and fruit. Meat is used in a lesser degree and often only as a flavouring. Iranians also make great use of spices and combine sweet and savoury ingredients to create wonderfully exotic flavours.

Iranian rice - called chelo when served alone, or polo when cooked with other ingredients - is light and fluffy and often flavoured with saffron or small tangy red berries. Thick soups and stews and kebabs are popular and a common dish is abgusht (or dizi) – a tasty potage made from stock, meat, vegetables and lentils. Another favourite is chelo kabab, which consists of grilled lamb (marinated in yoghurt and spices) served on a bed of rice. Juje kabab (chicken kebab) is the white meat version of the chelo kabab and is equally delicious.

Tasty vegetable and salad dishes are also readily available. Sabzi polo is a simple dish of vegetables flavoured with spices and served with rice. Kuku is a thick omelette cut in wedges often containing vegetables such as spinach, green beans, aubergine, or potato. Dolme are vegetables or vine leaves stuffed with spiced rice and/or meat, which can be served hot or cold, sometimes in a tomato based sauce.

Drinks
Without a doubt tea is Iran’s national beverage. Invariably hot, strong and bitter, it is always offered to guests as a welcome drink. Sugar is offered separately and the traditional way to add it is to clench a lump in your teeth and sip the tea through it! Iranian coffee is similar to Turkish – strong, black and sweet – but is not always available.

Another popular traditional drink is dugh, a sour yoghurt drink. It is often salty but also comes flavoured with herbs such as mint. Freshly squeezed fruit juices are refreshing and available in most places. Non-alcoholic beer is also available in most restaurants.

Special Dietary Requirements

Vegetarians
Although meat is often not the main feature of a meal, it can be found in many dishes, even if only as a stock. Therefore if you are a vegetarian you may experience a distinct lack of variety in the food available. Your Tour Leader will do their best to offer a vegetarian alternative, but your patience and understanding is requested.

Food Allergies
If you have food allergies or preferences, please make them known to your Tour Leader who will do their best to ensure that your requirements are met.

Please note: Unfortunately we can give no guarantee that special requirements can always be met.

Communications

Email
Internet cafés can now be found in Iran (although connection times can be slow). The cost for an hour is approx US$2.

Phone
International calls can be made from public telephones with pre-paid phonecards or through post offices. It is also often possible to make calls from your hotel although this will be more expensive.

Post
The postal service is good and stamps are available at post offices. An overseas stamp will cost approx. US$0.60.

Cameras

Availability of Film
Camera film can be found in most parts of Iran but it is best to bring your supply from home to be sure of the quality.

General Information

Weather

The climate in Iran varies considerably throughout the country. The coastal strip, running along the east side of the Persian Gulf to the coast of Pakistan enjoys a sunny climate throughout the year although summer is scorching hot and the humidity is quite oppressive.

The Caspian Province experiences much more temperate weather, although humidity is high in summer and the area has the highest annual rainfall in the country (1300 mm per annum).

Drier areas of Iran are found across the deserts and mountains in the central region, around Tehran and in the northern reaches of the country. Summer is hot, although quite manageable and humidity is relatively low. However, temperatures fall well below zero in the winter.

The following shows average daily temperatures (in degrees celsius):

Iran Meteorological Authority

Holidays

Islamic Holidays
Islamic Holidays are fixed in accordance with the Lunar Calendar. 2005 dates are:

• Islamic New Year - 21 Mar
• Prophet Mohammed's B'day - 26 April
• Ramadan - 06 Oct
• Eid el Fitr - 04 Nov

National Holidays

• No ruz (New Year) - 21 Mar
• Arbaeen of Imam Hossein - 31 Mar
• Death of Imam Khomeini - 04 June
• Khordad Uprising - 05 June
• Martydom of Imam Ali - 26 Oct

National Holidays

• Victory of Islamic Revolution - 11 Feb
• Nationalization of the Oil Industry - 19 Mar
• No ruz (New Year) - 21 Mar
• Arbaeen of Imam Hossein - 23 April
• Death of Imam Khomeini - 04 June
• Khordad Uprising - 05 June
• Martydom of Imam Ali - 15 Dec

Iran Public Holidays

Suggested Reading

Guidebooks

• Iran Lonely Planet
• Iran: The Bradt Travel Guide (By Patricia L. Baker)

Background Reading

• What Is Islam? A Comprehensive Introduction (Virgin Publishing)
• Behind Iranian Lines (by John Simpson)
• Danziger's Travels: Beyond Forbidden Frontiers (By Nick Danziger)

Useful Phrases in Farsi (Persian)

• Hello – Salam
• Goodbye – khoda hafez
• How are you? – hal-e shomachetor ast?
• I'm well, thank you – khoobam, moteshakeram
• Good morning – sobh bekheir
• Good evening – shab bekheir
• Excuse me – bebakhshid
• Please - lotfan
• Thank you – moteshakeram
• Yes – baleh
• No - kheir
• How Much? (price) – chand ast?
• Water - ab
• Tea - chay
• I don't understand – nemifahmam
• Do you speak English? – Shoma Englelisi baladid?

Notes:

1. The sound represented here as ‘kh’ is pronounced like the ‘ch’ in “loch”.
2. “H” is never silent, but is always pronounced as in “hark”.
3. “E” is pronounced as in the French word “café”.
4. Letters underlined indicate long vowel sounds. This is very important, as using the wrong vowel length can change the meaning of a word.

Farsi Numbers

• 0 - sefr
• 1 - yek
• 2 - do
• 3 - se
• 4 - chahar
• 5 - panj
• 6 - shesh
• 7 - haft
• 8 - hasht
• 9 - noh
• 10 - dah
• 11 - yazdah
• 12 - davazdah
• 20 - bist
• 30 - si
• 40 - chehel
• 50 - panjah
• 100 - sad
• 1000 - hezar

Contact Details

Local Office
The Imaginative Traveller
C/o ATC, Arg-e-Jadid Building,
296, Motahari Avenue,
15886 TEHRAN
Tel: +98 21 8881 10 72
Fax: +98 21 8882 61 12

UK Office
The Imaginative Traveller
1 Betts Avenue
Martlesham Heath
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP5 3RH
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1473 667337
Fax: +44 (0)1473 614566

24hr Emergency Contact
MOB (Ms. Roosta): +98 911 232 9787
HOME (Ms. Roosta): +98 21 284 62 50