Madagascar Country Dossier

"Madagascar is an unforgettable experience. Its primeval tropical jungle bursting with the most incredible creatures I’ve ever seen! The lemurs were as fascinated by us as we were them, being so close to these mysterious animals was amazing."

"The wildlife is so plentiful that I was constantly on the look out for brightly-hued chameleons, moon-eyed lemurs and exotic birds. What better way to digest the day’s viewing than by digesting the gently spiced fish with mouth-watering relish, prepared locally. Relaxing that evening I listened to folktales of the Malagasy related by my hosts. Cautionary yarns featuring old gods, ancestors and giant birds were slowly revealed by gracious, welcoming people whose hospitality and gentle humour I will never forget. One of the best things about Madagascar was the lack of foreigners, so rush there now before everyone hears about this island paradise!"

Hazel Hobbs, Traveller

• Factfile
• Preparing to go
• Money
• Cultural & Environmental Guidelines
• Arrival
• On Tour
• General Information

Factfile

Capital: Antananarivo (Tana)
Official Language: Malagasy, French. There are over 18 different ethnic groups each of which speak a dialect of Malagasy and/or indigenous languages.
Religions: Indigenous beliefs 52% Christian 41%, Muslim 7%.
Voltage: 220 Volts in major cities such as Antananarivo. Socket corresponds to European standard.

Preparing to go

Visas

All nationalities require a visa if wanting to visit Madagascar. Obtainable at the airport in Antananarivo for a fee of $34, only in US$ or €. There are Malagasy embassies and consulates in Australia, Austria, Canada, France, Belgium, UK, USA amongst others. If there is no Malagasy Embassy in your country you can apply by post for one in another country or use a visa service although this will be expensive as they will also have to deal with consulates abroad. Please note that many embassies take two weeks to process visas so make sure that you apply well in advance.

This information was correct at the time of writing and is valid for the majority of nationalities who travel on our tours. It is your responsibility to ensure that you are in possession of the correct visas for your holiday and onward travel. Imaginative Traveller cannot accept responsibility for anyone who is refused entry to a country because they lack the correct documentation.

International Vaccination Certificate
If you are arriving in Madagascar from an area infected by Yellow Fever, then proof of vaccination against yellow fever is required.

Money

Local Currency

The monetary unit in Madagascar is the Malagasy Ariary. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:

• 1 Pound Sterling = 3,200 Mga
• 1 US Dollar = 1,641 Mga
• 1 Euro = 2,536 Mga

There are no currency restrictions in Madagascar and US$ are mostly preferred by local vendors.

XE.com is a useful site for currency conversion.

Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATMs

It is a good idea to carry most of your money in Euros or US$. It is usually better to exchange major currencies in the airport at Antananarivo upon arrival. Currency exchange is possible at main banks in Antananarivo and in other large towns, but this can be a slow process and may take patience – particularly when changing traveller's cheques. It is easier to change traveller’s cheques upon arrival at the airport than to change them in the city itself. Outside of Antananarivo it is not possible to exchange traveller’s cheques.

Although currency exchange is possible outside of Antananarivo it may be advisable to change enough for your whole trip upon arrival. The local currency is not convertible abroad so you should only change what you think you will spend, or change it back before you depart. Normally there is no commission on currency exchange. Credit cards are accepted in Antananarivo but are less commonly accepted beyond the capital. ATMs can be found in Antananarivo but are virtually non-existent beyond large resort hotels.

The Pre-Departure Booklet that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains general information about organising your spending money. Your Tour Leader will be able to advise you on local facilities.

Working out your Budget

The Pre-Departure Information contains general information about the things you will need to consider when budgeting for your holiday. Below are some specific notes relevant to our KTMM - Mysterious Madagascar tour.

Entrance Fees

Entrance fees are included for all sites listed as part of the itinerary. There are a small number of sites in Tana which you might like to visit if you are arriving early or staying later than the tour. These include among others the Tsimbazaza Botanical Garden the Ambohimanga Palace. Entrance fees cost around US$10 for most sites in and around Tana.

Optional Excursions

At Ifaty you will be able to go snorkelling or diving (qualified divers only) should you choose. Snorkelling excursions cost approximately US$20, while dives start at around US$45.

Meals

As only breakfasts are included, you will have the freedom to explore your own lunch and dinner options. Approximate costs for meals in Madagascar are as follows:

• Simple snack - US$1-3
• Light meal - US$3-5
• Fancy restaurant - US$5-10

For a guide to the type of food you will find in Madagascar see the Local Food & Drink section of this dossier.

Drinks
Tea and coffee is provided with breakfast but all other drinks (i.e. bottled water, soft drinks) are at your own expense. Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown below.

Note: Prices in restaurants and hotels can be as much as double those specified.

• 1l of water - US$0.50
• 30cl bottle of soft drink - US$0.5-1
• 65cl bottle of beer - US$1-2

It is not recommended that you drink the local tap water in Madagascar however bottled water, soft drinks and fruit juices are widely available throughout the country.

Local Transport

The best way to get around Madagascar is by taxi-brousses (Renault minibus/van) or bache (small canvas-topped van). It should not cost more than $10 for day-hire. Otherwise there are no fixed prices for a place in a car, it is dependent on the route and the driver. Always agree to a price before beginning your journey. Malagasy roads often bear the effects of tropical cyclones and storms resulting in potholed surfaces. Another option available in most cities would be to travel by hand-pulled rickshaw, or pousse-pousse, which were introduced by British missionaries.

It is not advisable to travel on local transport at night as accidents often occur in the dark.

The Ivato International Airport is 15km from the centre of Antananarivo and a taxi costs approximately $15.

What to Take

The Pre-Departure Information that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains a comprehensive list of items that you should consider bringing with you. There are certain items of equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, towels) that you will need on some tours and not on others. Check your Trip Dossier for any special requirements.

Clothing

As a general guideline, clothing should be lightweight, loose fitting, hard-wearing and easily washed. In Madagascar’s hot climate cotton clothing is much more comfortable than man-made materials like nylon. In the cooler winter months it can be very cold at night so you should bring some warm clothing. However, you should allow for climate changes whenever you travel and you will generally find it is better to have several thin layers rather than one thick layer as it gives you more flexibility and warmth. A fleece can be invaluable and double as a pillow.

Madagascar has relatively relaxed attitudes towards dress and shorts are acceptable through much of the country.

You should also bear in mind that long sleeves and trousers can be very useful in the evenings to help prevent against mosquito bites and during the day to protect against the sun.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: The sun can be extremely strong in Madagascar and you need to take appropriate precautions. Drink lots of water and always wear a hat during the day. A sarong can also be invaluable as you can use this to cover any part of your body that you think may be getting too much sun.

In certain areas and religious sites your Tour Leader may ask you to dress conservatively. Out of respect for local values, we ask that you follow your Tour Leader’s advice at all times.

Other Useful Equiptment
There are some items on this list which we highly recommend you bring to Madagascar. A torch (and spare batteries) can be invaluable and a hat/sarong will help keep dust and sand out of your hair. Likewise Madagascar’s sometimes dusty conditions make the wearing of contact lenses inadvisable. You should also bring personal medical supplies and toiletries, including rehydration salts, anti-diarrhoea pills, aspirins, antiseptic/disinfectant, sunscreen, tampons, necessary medicines, etc.

Malaria
At all times of the year it is highly advisable to protect yourself while in Madagascar with a course of prophylactics or 'anti malarial' tablets. Generally you will need to begin taking the tablets a week or two before travel and continue for up to four weeks after you return home. It is important that you consult your doctor for information on the specific course required. You should remember that anti-malarial tablets are never 100% effective and should always be combined with other preventative measures to avoid being bitten. Alongside keeping exposed skin to a minimum you should also use an insect repellent with a high concentration of DEET (particularly in the evenings and when near rivers). It is NOT necessary to bring a mosquito net: in hotels there is mesh covering the windows to keep mosquito out (or mosquito nets may be provided).

Luggage
It is important to bring durable soft luggage or a back pack which does not weigh more than around 10-12kg as this is a lot more practical to transport.

Prepare Yourself
Whilst few of our tours can be described as physically demanding you will find all activities more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit and active.

Cultural & Environmental Guidelines

The Environment

Toilets
In places where toilets are not available such as while trekking in the National Parks please ensure that you find a spot well away from local settlements and take away your toilet paper. You should bring a supply of plastic bags for this purpose. You should not burn your paper as this can cause fires and burying is also not an option in such a dry climate.

Wherever you use a western or squat style toilet remember to place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin provided – DO NOT flush it down the toilet as this may block the sewerage system. You may also want to carry your own toilet paper as not all toilets will supply it.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: You may find it useful to take along a supply of antiseptic wet wipes or waterless soap to help keep clean.

Etiquette & Customs

Greetings are fundamental in Madagascar – no conversation starts without polite enquiries about one another's health and family and often a handshake. Even if you are just asking for directions or entering a shop it is considered rude not to start with a simple greeting like "how are you?" If you can learn to say this in Malagasy (see the general information section) you're sure to be a big hit! Try to remember to use your right hand for giving, receiving, shaking hands or eating (if there is no cutlery) as the left is associated with washing after visiting the toilet. Open displays of anger or affection (such as kissing and holding hands) are generally not acceptable.

Photography

You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. Some people may also ask for a small gift or money in return for a photo.

Haggling

Haggling is a way of life in Madagascar. Prices are not fixed and nearly everything is negotiable with bargaining expected. Shop keepers and market traders will start with a high price which you are then expected to haggle down until you reach a fair price (although this can sometimes be as low as one third of the price you were first told remember you may be haggling over only a few cents which mean a lot more to the shop keeper than you). Haggling should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun!

Arrival

Arrival Transfers

An arrival transfer is included in the cost of the tour. Upon arrival at Ivato International Airport, please look out for our representative who will be holding a sign with your name on it. Please make sure you take time to look around carefully for our representative with the sign. There may be a large crowd of people waiting, and it may take time to find them.

If several travellers on Imaginative Traveller tours are arriving on the same flight, the transfer representative may be taking you all together to the meeting point. Please be patient if you need to wait a few minutes for other travellers from the same flight.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: If you experience any problems with your luggage and are delayed in the baggage/customs area, please try to make contact with the transfer representative immediately to advise them of the problem and ensure they wait for you. You may need to ask permission of security to exit the customs/baggage hall and then re-enter.

Making Your Own Way

The Meeting Point for your tour should be clearly marked on your travel vouchers.

The best way to get into Tana is by taxi. This should cost around US$15, and the journey takes around 45 minutes to an hour, depending upon traffic.

Taxis can be found outside of the airport building. As prices can vary wildly, it’s worth asking around to obtain the best deal. Don’t be afraid to bargain! You should agree a fare with the driver before getting in.

On Tour

Safety

Most people find that Madagascar is a very friendly and hospitable country and feel quite comfortable wandering around alone during the day. However, as with any country you are not familiar with it is recommended that you exercise more caution at night and generally take taxis rather than walk especially if you are a lone female. It is also a good idea to be discreet with your money and possessions at all times.

Tour Leaders & Guides

Your Tour Leader's role is to ensure all aspects of the trip run smoothly. He/she will share their local knowledge, advise on how to fill your free time and co-ordinate the day to day running of the tour – although occasionally he/she may need your understanding if things do not go according to plan. If you have any problems on the tour, please let your Tour Leader know so that steps can be taken to put it right.

In Madagascar we also use the services of specialist guides at selected sites of particular historical and cultural interest. For trips through the national parks we will be joined by specialist naturalist.

Please note that some styles of trip, such as Imaginative Escapes or Imaginative Honeymoons, do not have a Tour Leader. However, there will be representatives on hand who will be able to assist you in arranging any excursions that you wish you take.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Madagascar does vary considerably and outside of the main cities there is often limited choice. As with all Imaginative Traveller tours, our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness. However, in Madagascar air conditioning and hot water are often luxuries rather than the norm. For most of the tour we stay in small hotels or guesthouses which are simple, but functional with a warm welcome and bags of charm. You should however bear in mind that all levels of hotels can sometimes suffer from minor problems and technical difficulties. For two nights we will be sleeping in dormitory style encampments or twin-share A-frame/dome tents. It is important to follow your tour leader’s instructions whilst setting up your tent. If you are diligent with the tent zippers, mosquitoes should not keep you awake at night.

At each hotel your Tour Leader will try to organise the rooming arrangements to suit everyone's requirements. If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a room with another group member of the same sex. If you are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot guarantee the availability of double beds.

Laundry

An inexpensive (price per item) laundry service is available in many of the hotels we use.

Local Food & Drink

Food
Madagascar’s population enjoys a broad selection of excellent cuisine ranging from seafood and stews to zebu. The most common Malagasy dish is romazava, a meat and vegetable stew spiced with ginger. A common starter is lasopy, a thick and hearty vegetable soup. Rice dishes are the staple of the Malagasy diet, cooked with chicken, pork or beef and always washed down with a glass of burnt-rice ranonapango. Vary amin anana is a lightly spiced rice and vegetable dish served with sakay, fiery red pepper relish. Along the Malagasy coastline delicious fresh fish, lobster and shellfish will tempt seafood lovers. The abundance of fresh fruit on the island makes dessert something to look forward to in Madagascar like lychees, pineapple, cantaloupe and strawberries all flavoured with vanilla.

Drinks
Tiko fruit juice is a popular local brand and very refreshing on a hot day. Betsabetsa, a strong sugarcane juice is popular on the east coast, while the fermented coconut juice, trembo, packs a punch. Major international brands of soft drinks are readily available though local limonady makes a change.

Beer is popular in Madagascar, the best being THB or Three Horses Beer. The weaker, Queens and Gold labels are also available.

Special Dietary Requirements

Vegetarians
In Madagascar you can find food without meat, however even the simplest vegetable sauce may sometimes have a small bit of meat or animal fat in it. Therefore, if you are a vegetarian you may experience a distinct lack of variety and protein (generally the main source of protein will be omelettes). When ordering, use the phrase: Tsy misy hena.- “without meat”. Your Tour Leader will do their best to offer a vegetarian alternative, but your patience and understanding is requested.

Food Allergies
If you have food allergies or preferences, please make them known to your Tour Leader who will do their best to ensure that your requirements are met.

Please note: Unfortunately we can give no guarantee that special requirements can always be met.

Communications

Email
Internet cafes have begun to appear in Antananarivo, mostly located in the major hotel chains. There are usually small cybercafes located in major towns and popular tourist areas.

Phone
The Malagasy telephone network is improving. International phones are cream coloured Publiphones which require a telephone card.

Post
Most towns have a post office where you can purchase stamps. The postal service is reasonably efficient yet stamps are costly at between US$2 and US$4 depending on the country.

Cameras

Availability of Film
Camera film can be found in major cities but it is expensive and can be damaged by the intense heat of the sun. Therefore it is best to bring your supply from home to be sure of the quality. For digital cameras ensure that you bring an adequate supply of memory cards.

General Information

Weather

The climate of Madagascar is tropical with distinct wet and dry seasons. From Nov-Mar it is the summer wet season featuring consistent rainfall. Between April and October the dry winter season is mild with little rainfall. The eastern coast of the island receives the most rainfall borne by the monsoonal winds off the Indian Ocean. The central highlands are much cooler (25C) than the coast (30C) during summertime.

The following chart shows average daytime temperatures (in degrees celsius) in Antananarivo:

Madagascar Meteorological Authority

Holidays

National Holidays

• New Year's Day - 1 Jan
• Remembrance Day - 29 Mar
• Labour Day - 1 May
• Independence Day - 26 Jun

Religious Holidays (2005 dates)

• Aid el Kebir - 21 Jan
• Islamic New Year - 10 Feb
• Martyrs' Day - 20 Feb
• Prophet Mohammed's B'day - 21 Apr
• Feast of Assumption - 15 Aug
• Ramadan - 5 Oct
• All Saints’ Day - 1 Nov
• Eid el Fitr - 4 Nov
• Christmas Day - 25 Dec
• Republic Day - 30 Dec

Events

• Donia Music Festival - Mar-May
• Famadihana period - Jun-Sep

Madagascar Public Holidays

Suggested Reading

Guidebooks

• Madagascar (Bradt Travel Guides)
• Madagascar & Comoros (Lonely Planet Publications)

Background Reading

• Muddling through Madagascar (by Dervla Murphy)
• In Search of the Red Slave: Shipwreck and Captivity in Madagascar (by Mike Parker Pearson and Karen Godden)
• A Far Country (by Philip Marsden-Smith)

Useful Phrases in Malagasy

• Hello – Manao Ahoana
• Hello (north & east coast) – Salama
• Goodbye – Veloom
• How are you? - Inona no vaovao?
• Please - Azafad
• Yes – Yoh
• No - Ah
• Thank you – Misowt
• Excuse me – M’buy lalan
• How much? – Ohtreen?
• Everything is OK – Tanante
• I don’t understand – Tsi azook
• Please assist me - Bampeewha

Contact Details

Local Office
The Imaginative Traveller
C/o Island Continent Tours
Residence des Caraibes
Lot 002 MMA II
Mamory Ivato
105 Antananarivo
Madagascar
Tel (+261) 20 22 069 79
Fax (+261) 20 22 069 80

UK Office
The Imaginative Traveller
1 Betts Avenue
Martlesham Heath
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP5 3RH
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1473 667337
Fax: +44 (0)1473 614566

24hr Emergency Contact
(MOB): +44 7815 097432 (UK)
(MOB): +261 32 0754389/ +261 33 1225496