Mali Country Dossier

"Imagine my excitement to be finally seeing what to me had always been Africa…"

Brown mud huts, with the glowing embers of small log fires just visible, kids playing outside with pre-historic, handmade toys, colourfully dressed women grinding corn with giant pestle and mortars, and men simply sitting on logs smoking! In Djenne the market was a sea of moving colours – bright reds, yellows and blues – as everywhere you looked the locals were bargaining and exchanging goods. The setting was very beautiful but most impressive was the enormous mosque, again made of mud, in the background of the whole affair. But definitely, the most beautiful place in Mali, in fact probably in Africa, was the Dogon Valley and the Dogon tribes that live there. Trekking into Dogon country, we walked parallel to the famous Bandiagara Escarpment and were surrounded by landscape that was truly stunning.

Ru Lea, Traveller

Mali - What to Expect

The printed statistics on Mali can make for rather depressing reading. The average life expectancy is only 48 years old, the roads are mostly dirt – dusty in the dry season and awash with mud in the rainy season and the vast majority of people live in small villages, many of which don't have electricity. Even Bamako has few tar roads and resembles a large sprawling village rather than a capital city. Outside of Bamako life is quieter, but not easier. Homes are almost solely built from mud bricks. Gathering water is a chore and clothes are washed by hand in the Niger River or other water source. Just like in the pictures, almost everything is carried on the head, carefully balanced. Families practice subsistence agriculture and even young children are expected to help out in the fields, prepare food, or care for their siblings.

That said, there is so much more to Mali than what is contained in the statistics. It’s one of the most vibrant and colourful countries in Africa. Ask any Malian about their country's history and they'll proudly regale you with stories of the great Mali Empire and the expedition of Mansa Musa to Egypt and Mecca. Although hot and often dusty, it is a country with many hidden beauties, from the brightly dressed women, teeming markets and splendid mud-brick mosques to the marvels of nature including the great Sahara Desert, the Bandiagara escarpment and the winding Niger River.

While not blessed with large sums of money, Malians find richness through honour and respect. No one seems to be in a hurry and lengthy greetings continue to be part of everyday life; enquiring after the health and well-being of the individual as well as any family member. An invitation to sit down and share a cup of sweet tea often follows.

• Factfile
• Preparing to go
• Money
• Cultural & Environmental Guidelines
• Arrival
• On Tour
• General Information

Factfile

Capital: Bamako
Official Language: French
Others: Each ethnic group has its own language however the main local languages are Bambara, Songhaï, Tuareg and Arabic. About 80% of the people speak Bambara.
Religions: Muslim 90%, traditional African religion 9%, Christian 1%. In reality many Malians practice a relaxed brand of Islam blended with traditional animist beliefs.
Voltage: 220 Volts in Bamako. Sockets are 'European' two pronged round pin. Power supply can be erratic and power cuts are common – particularly outside Bamako. Some campements have their own generator and cut electricity around 11pm, although hotels in Mopti, Timbuktu and Segou have a 24hr supply.

Preparing to go

Visas

Unless you are a national of a selection of North and West African countries you will need a visa to enter Mali. Obtaining a visa is usually a straightforward process – once you have located your nearest Malian Embassy or Consulate. If there is no Malian Embassy in your country you can apply by post for one in another country (there are Malian Embassies or Consulates in France, Germany & USA) or use a visa service although this will be expensive as they will also have to deal with consulates abroad.

Visas cost around US$35 (your application must also be accompanied by two passport photos) and are usually valid for one month from the date of entry, although visas can be extended in Mali, either in Bamako at the Immigration Service or at any police station. Visas may be obtained up to three months in advance of travelling to Mali.

Please note that many embassies take two weeks to process visas so make sure that you apply well in advance. Also note that you may read that it is possible to obtain a visa on arrival in Bamako. However we strongly advise against this as most airlines are not aware of this and will not let you onto the plane without a visa.

This information was correct at the time of writing and is valid for the majority of nationalities who travel on our tours. However, you should check with the relevant Embassy or Consulate for the most up to date information for your own nationality several weeks before your date of travel.

It is your responsibility to ensure that you are in possession of the correct visas for your holiday and onward travel. Imaginative Traveller cannot accept responsibility for anyone who is refused entry to a country because they lack the correct documentation.

International Vaccination Certificate
To enter Mali you must have been vaccinated for Yellow Fever and have with you an International Vaccination Certificate to prove it. The certificate is not valid until ten days after the date of your last vaccination and then lasts for ten years. You will generally be asked for this after passport control at Bamako airport.

Money

Local Currency

The monetary unit in Mali is the West Africa Franc or CFA Franc (CFA), divided into 100 centimes. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:

• 1 Pound Sterling = 827 CFA
• 1 US Dollar = 424 CFA
• 1 Euro = 656 CFA

There is no restriction on the amount of foreign currency that a visitor may bring into Mali.

XE.com is a useful site for currency conversion.

Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATMs

As the CFA Franc is tied to the Euro (and Euros are sometimes accepted in shops) it is a good idea to carry most of your money in Euros. It is usually possible to exchange other major currencies (particularly USD) in Bamako though the exchange rates are usually not as good as that given for Euros. Currency exchange is possible at main banks in Bamako and in other large towns, but this can be a slow process and may take patience – particularly when changing traveller's cheques. It is generally better to bring cash though some travellers do not like to do this for safety reasons.

We would recommend that you change some money into local currency before you pass through Immigration in the airport – as there are no facilities in the airport after this point.

Although currency exchange is possible outside of Bamako it may be advisable to change enough for your whole trip in Bamako where you will find more banks and exchange rates are generally better. Credit cards are accepted in a couple of hotels in Bamako and cash advances on credit cards are only available with visa cards at two banks in Mali, (the BMCD and BICIM Banks in Bamako). It can be very difficult to find a working ATM in Bamako, and changing traveller’s cheques is laborious at the best of times; on Sundays, it is usually impossible. The Pre Departure Booklet that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains general information about organising your spending money. Your Tour Leader will be able to advise you on local facilities.

Working out your Budget

The Pre-Departure Information contains general information about the things you will need to consider when budgeting for your holiday. Below are some specific notes relevant to our tours in Mali.

Entrance Fees

Although Traveller trips include entrance fees to all sites specified in your itinerary there are additional sights that you may like to visit. Adventurer trips do not include any entrance fees. The average entrance fee is approx US$1.50, with the most expensive being approx. US$8.

Optional Excursions

There is little free time on our tour in Mali and most excursions and activities are included so you do not need to allow much money for ‘extras’. However there are a couple of options to consider;

• Dogon Mask Dance - US$20-25 (depending on the number of people in the group)
• Excursion to the Manding Mountains outside Bamako - US$50 (depending on the number of people in the group)

Meals

Approximate costs for meals in Bamako are as follows;

• Simple snack - US$1-2
• Light meal - US$3-6
• Fancy restaurant - US$7-15

For a guide to the type of food you will find in Mali see the Local Food & Drink section of this dossier.

Drinks

Tea and coffee is provided with breakfast but all other drinks (i.e. bottled water, soft drinks) are at your own expense. Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown below.

Note: Prices in restaurants and hotels can be as much as double those specified.

• 1l of water - US$1-2
• 30cl bottle of soft drink - US$0.5-1.5
• 65cl bottle of beer - US$1-3

It is not recommended that you drink the local tap water in Mali however bottled water, soft drinks and fruit juices are widely available throughout the country.

Local Transport

Generally speaking the best way to get around Mali's towns and villages is on foot. The only city large enough to warrant the use of taxis or buses is Bamako although even here most of the main attractions are within walking distance of each other. In Bamako there are two types of taxis – private (or location) and shared, both of which are yellow. While private taxis will take you from A to B for around US$2, shared taxis (those with a 'taxi' sign on the roof) usually charge around US$1 and operate along a set route stopping to pick up other passengers along the way. A taxi from the city centre to the airport will cost approx US$7 (shared) and approx. US$14 (private). Taxis are not metered and fares should always be bargained for and agreed before the journey starts.

Aside from taxis Bamako's main public transport is a network of bright green minibuses known locally as sotramas or dourounis. Sotramas go virtually everywhere and the standard fare is approx. US$0.2. It is not advisable to travel on local transport at night as accidents often occur in the dark.

What to Take

The Pre Departure Booklet that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains a comprehensive list of items that you should consider bringing with you. There are certain items of equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, towels) that you will need on some tours and not on others. Check your Trip Dossier for any special requirements.

Clothing

As a general guideline, clothing should be lightweight, loose fitting, hard-wearing and easily washed. In Mali's hot climate cotton clothing is much more comfortable than man-made materials like nylon. In the cooler winter months (Dec-Feb) it can be very cold – even freezing – in the desert areas at night so you should bring some warm clothing. However, you should allow for climate changes whenever you travel and you will generally find it is better to have several thin layers rather than one thick layer as it gives you more flexibility and warmth. A fleece can be invaluable and double as a pillow.

Although a Muslim country, Mali has relatively relaxed attitudes towards dress and shorts are acceptable through much of the country. Djenne and Timbuktu, however, are more conservative and both men and women should cover their legs in these towns.

You should also bear in mind that long sleeves and trousers can be very useful in the evenings to help prevent against mosquito bites and during the day to protect against the sun.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: The sun is fierce in Mali and you need to take appropriate precautions. Drink lots of water and always wear a hat during the day. A sarong can also be invaluable as you can use this to cover any part of your body that you think may be getting too much sun.

In certain areas and religious sites your Tour Leader may ask you to dress conservatively. Out of respect for local values, we ask that you follow your Tour Leader’s advice at all times.

Other Useful Equiptment
You will find a general equipment list in our Pre Departure Booklet which should help you decide what to bring – and may remind you of a few things you haven't thought of! However there are some items on this list which we highly recommend you bring to Mali. A torch (and spare batteries) can be invaluable and a hat/sarong will help keep dust and sand out of your hair (even a light breeze kicks up the dust – which gets everywhere!) Likewise Mali's dusty conditions make the wearing of contact lenses inadvisable. You should also bring personal medical supplies and toiletries, including rehydration salts, anti-diarrhoea pills, aspirins, antiseptic/disinfectant, sunscreen, tampons, necessary medicines, etc.

Malaria
At all times of the year it is highly advisable to protect yourself while in Mali with a course of prophylactics or 'anti malarial' tablets. Generally you will need to begin taking the tablets a week or two before travel and continue for up to four weeks after you return home. It is important that you consult your doctor for information on the specific course required. You should remember that anti-malarial tablets are never 100% effective and should always be combined with other preventative measures to avoid being bitten. Alongside keeping exposed skin to a minimum you should also use an insect repellent with a high concentration of DEET (particularly in the evenings and when near rivers). It is NOT necessary to bring a mosquito net: in hotels there is mesh covering the windows to keep mosquito our (or mosquito nets may be provided) and when camping, as long as you keep your tent zipped up, mosquitos should not get inside.

Luggage
It is important to bring durable soft luggage or a back pack which does not weigh more than around 10-12kg as this is a lot more practical to transport. Please note that the luggage limit for the internal flight is 15kg per person, plus hand luggage of 5kg.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: You may want to bring a waterproof pack cover or line your pack with a bin bag to protect against dust.

Prepare Yourself
Whilst few of our tours can be described as physically demanding you will find all activities more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit and active.

Cultural & Environmental Guidelines

The Environment

Toilets
In places where toilets are not available such as while camping by the River Niger please ensure that you find a spot well away from local settlements take away your toilet paper. You should bring a supply of plastic bags for this purpose. You should not burn your paper as this can cause fires and burying is also not an option in such a dry climate.

Wherever you use a western or squat style toilet remember to place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin provided – DO NOT flush it down the toilet as this may block the sewerage system. You may also want to carry your own toilet paper as not all toilets will supply it.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: You may find it useful to take along a supply of antiseptic wet wipes or waterless soap to help keep clean.

Resources
In Mali resources such as water and electricity are extremely precious. Please bear this in mind when washing and showering and try to limit your water and electricity usage as much as possible.

Etiquette & Customs

Greetings are fundamental in Mali – no conversation starts without polite enquiries about one another's health and family and often a handshake. Even if you are just asking for directions or entering a shop it is considered rude not to start with a simple greeting like "how are you?" If you can learn to say this in Bambara (see the general information section) you're sure to be a big hit! Try to remember to use your right hand for giving, receiving, shaking hands or eating (if there is no cutlery) as the left is associated with washing after visiting the toilet. You should also note that pointing your finger is considered an obscene gesture and open displays of anger or affection (such as kissing and holding hands) are generally not acceptable.

Most Dogon Villages have sacred areas which you should not visit or walk over. As these areas may not be instantly recognisable please follow the advice of your Tour Leader at all times.

Photography

You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In certain areas, such as the Dogon Country, there are still taboos associated with taking photos. Some people may also ask for a small gift or money in return for a photo.

Haggling

Haggling is a way of life in Mali. Prices are not fixed and nearly everything is negotiable with bargaining expected. Shop keepers and market traders will start with a high price which you are then expected to haggle down until you reach a fair price (although this can sometimes be as low as one third of the price you were first told remember you may be haggling over only a few cents which mean a lot more to the shop keeper than you). Haggling should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun!

Arrival

Arrival Transfers

Upon arrival, please look for our representative who will be holding an "Imaginative Traveller" sign or a sign with your name on it. He should be waiting for you in the Arrivals Hall (i.e. after exiting Immigration and Customs).

Making Your Own Way

The Meeting Point for your tour should be clearly marked on your travel vouchers.

It is a relatively simple matter to make your own way to the meeting point if you are not being transferred. Bamako-Senou International Airport is 15km from the city centre and is serviced by a local bus and taxis. The local bus should meet most international flights and operate a shuttle into town for approx. US$3, however the reality is that the bus may not be easy to find or may not turn up at all! A taxi from the airport costs approx. US$10-14.

On Tour

Safety

Most people find that Mali is a very friendly and hospitable country and feel quite comfortable wandering around alone during the day. However, as with any country you are not familiar with (and in particular in large cities such as Bamako), it is recommended that you exercise more caution at night and generally take taxis rather than walk especially if you are a lone female. It is also a good idea to be discreet with your money and possessions at all times.

Tour Leaders & Guides

Your Tour Leader's role is to ensure all aspects of the trip run smoothly. He/she will share their local knowledge, advise on how to fill your free time and co-ordinate the day to day running of the tour – although occasionally he/she may need your understanding if things do not go according to plan. If you have any problems on the tour, please let your Tour Leader know so that steps can be taken to put it right.

In Mali we also use the services of specialist guides at selected sights of particular historical and cultural interest in Djenne, Dogon Country and Timbuktu.

Please note that some styles of trip, such as Imaginative Escapes or Imaginative Honeymoons, do not have a Tour Leader. However, there will be representatives on hand who will be able to assist you in arranging any excursions that you wish you take.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Mali does vary considerably and outside of the main cities there is often limited choice. It is also generally accepted that the prices are high compared to the services supplied. As with all Imaginative Traveller tours, our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness and we try to stay in the best available. However, in Mali air conditioning and hot water are often luxuries rather than the norm. More often than not we stay in hotels or campements which are simple, but functional with a warm welcome and bags of charm. You should however bear in mind that all levels of hotels can sometimes suffer from minor problems and technical difficulties.

At each hotel your Tour Leader will try to organise the rooming arrangements to suit everyone's requirements. If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a room with another group member of the same sex. If you are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot guarantee the availability of double beds.

Laundry

An inexpensive (price per item) laundry service is available in many of the hotels we use.

Local Food & Drink

Food
Mali's main staple is rice and millet so you should expect to see rice as a feature or at least accompaniment of most of your meals. It is often eaten with a thin beef broth mixed with tomatoes known as riz au gras, with vegetables and/or meat (riz yollof) or with a peanut sauce made with tomatoes and onions (sauce d'arachide) although there are many regional variations. If you order meat with your meal it will most probably be chicken (stringy and chewy) or mutton though goat and beef are also eaten. Millet, yams and couscous feature heavily in meals found in Dogon Country, Sikasso and Djenne respectively and along the River Niger, capitaine (Nile perch), is eaten deep fried or grilled and is very good. Please note that vegetables can be limited in meals in Mali.

Drinks
Strong sweet tea is drunk all over Mali and stalls selling tea and coffee can be found around markets and transport parks. Major international brands of soft drinks are readily available, as well as local brands and fresh fruit juice (most commonly pineapple and apple). A popular local specialty sold on virtually every street corner is djablani – a frozen drink flavoured with bissap, ginger or the fruit of the baobab tree.

Although Mali is predominantly Muslim most towns have at least one bar where you can buy alcohol. Castel is the most popular local brew while Flag is more refined and therefore more expensive. In rural areas you are more likely to come across the thick brown millet beer favoured by the locals. Imported beer, wine and spirits can be found in larger supermarkets in Bamako.

Special Dietary Requirements

Vegetarians
In Mali you can easily find food without meat, however even the simplest vegetable sauce may sometimes have a small bit of meat or animal fat in it. Therefore, if you are a vegetarian you may experience a distinct lack of variety and protein (generally the main source of protein will be omelettes). Your Tour Leader will do their best to offer a vegetarian alternative, but your patience and understanding is requested.

Food Allergies
If you have food allergies or preferences, please make them known to your Tour Leader who will do their best to ensure that your requirements are met.

Please note: Unfortunately we can give no guarantee that special requirements can always be met.

Communications

Email
Internet cafes are beginning to appear in Mali and, telephone lines permitting, there are places in Bamako and even Timbuktu, Djenne and Mopti where internet access is possible. The average cost for an hour is approx. US$3.

Phone
The Malian phone system can be very unpredictable outside Bamako. It is advisable to use a privately run call shop (called a cabine telephonique) in Bamako, Djenne, Mopti and Timbuktu where the cost of your call depends on the number of units used. A 3 minute call to the UK should cost approx. US$5.

Post
Most towns have a post office where you can purchase stamps. The postal service is reasonably efficient and an overseas stamp will cost between US$0.50 and US$1 depending on the country.

Cameras

Availability of Film
Camera film can be found in major cities but it is expensive and can be damaged by the intense heat of the sun. Therefore it is best to bring your supply from home to be sure of the quality.

Please also note that Mali does not have facilities to enable you to download digital photos.

General Information

Weather

Text.Although Mali has two distinct seasons the climate is nearly always hot, dry and dusty. The wet season lasts from June to September and is characterised by monsoonal winds and heavy thunderstorms. The dry season lasts from October to June and is characterised by low humidity, high temperatures and desert winds. Between October and February average temperatures are a more bearable 25-30 degrees Celsius making for the best time to visit. From around the end of Dec to June the harmattan wind can blow hot, dry air from the Sahara occasionally making dust and heat a major irritation.

The following chart shows average daytime temperatures (in degrees celsius):

Mali Meteorological Authority

Holidays

National Holidays

• New Year's Day - 1 Jan
• Army Day - 20 Jan
• Labour Day - 1 May
• Africa Day - 25 May
• Independence Day - 22 Sept

Religious Holidays
(2007 dates)

• Islamic New Year - 20 Jan
• Martyrs' Day - 26 Mar
• Easter - 8 Apr
• Prophet Mohammed's B'day - 31 Mar
• Ramadan - 13 Sep
• Eid el Fitr - 13 Oct

Events

• Diafarabé crossing of the cattle - Nov/Dec
• Fête des Masques - Jan

Mali Public Holidays

Suggested Reading

Guidebooks

• Mali – The Bradt Travel Guide
• Lonely Planet West Africa

Background Reading

• Mali Blues (Lonely Planet Journeys by Lieve Joris)

Useful Phrases in Bambara

• Hello – i ni sògòma
• Goodbye – k an bè
• How are you? – i ka kènè
• Thank you – i ni ce
• Yes - òwò
• No - ayi
• Excuse me/sorry – ya fan me
• How much? – joli?
• I don't understand – n'ma fahamuya

Bambara Numbers

• 1 - kelen
• 2 - fla
• 3 - saba
• 4 - naani
• 5 - duurun
• 6 - wooro
• 7 - wolonfla
• 8 - seegin
• 9 - konoto
• 10 - tan
• 11 - tan ni kelen
• 12 - tan ni fla
• 20 - mugan
• 30 - mugan ni tan (or bi saba)
• 40 - bi naani
• 50 - bi duurun
• 100 - keme
• 1000 - ba kelen

Useful Phrases in French

Although Bambara is more widely spoken, French is still useful (and easier to master!)

• Hello – bonjour
• Goodbye – au revoir
• Please – s'il vous plaît
• How are you? – comment allez-vous / ça va
• Fine thanks – très bien, merci
• Thank you – merci
• Yes - oui
• No - non
• Excuse me – excuse-moi
• How much? – c'est combien?
• I don't understand – je ne comprends pas

French Numbers

• 0 - zèro
• 1 - un
• 2 - duex
• 3 - trois
• 4 - quatre
• 5 - cinq
• 6 - six
• 7 - sept
• 8 - huit
• 9 - neuf
• 10 - dix
• 11 - onze
• 12 - douze
• 13 - treize
• 20 - vingt
• 30 - trente
• 40 - quarante
• 50 - cinquante
• 100 - cent
• 1000 - mille

Contact details

Local Office
The Imaginative Traveller
C/o Azimut Travel
BP 2963, Rue 122 Porte 35
Korofina Nord, BAMAKO
Tel/Fax +223 224 21 11

UK Office
The Imaginative Traveller
1 Betts Avenue
Martlesham Heath
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP5 3RH
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1473 667337
Fax: +44 (0)1473 614566

24hr Emergency Contact
(MOB): +44 7815 097432 (UK)
(MOB): +223 674 1116 (MALI)