Gambia and Senegal Country Dossier

"Sunrise on the river was a great way to start the day’s search for riverbirds, crocs and chimpanzees. As the sun slowly illuminated the dense foliage of the jungle I saw a huge blue heron, proud in profile, gradually ease itself from its perch to wing its way languidly over the treetops. A splash and I realised the boatman and I were not the ones to have frightened the great bird as a crocodile slid into the depths. The prospects of seeing hippos excited me as the wildlife awoke with the sun, the sounds of the jungle gradually emerging into the cool air. Senegal and the Gambia are teeming with animals, birds and a fascinating cultural heritage – immerse yourself in the quintessential West African utopia."

Jane Simpson, Traveller

• Factfile
• Preparing to go
• Money
• Cultural & Environmental Guidelines
• Arrival
• On Tour
• General Information

Factfile

Capital:
Senegal: Dakar
Gambia: Banjul
Official Language:
Senegal: French
Gambia: English
Others: Each ethnic group has its own language however commonly spoken languages in the area include Wolof, Mandinka, Jola, Krio and Fula.
Religions: Over 90% of the population of Senegal and the Gambia are Muslim. Traditional African religion is practiced by approximately 1% of the population, while Christians comprise approximately 7%.
Voltage: 220 Volts in major cities, though less in smaller villages, particularly in the Gambia. Sockets are 'European' two pronged round pin. Power supply can be erratic and power cuts are not uncommon – particularly outside major cities.

Preparing to go

Visas

Visa requirements for Senegal and Gambia differ depending on nationality. Consult your nearest Gambian and Senegalese Embassies or travel agent before booking your tour.

It is your responsibility to ensure that you are in possession of the correct visas for your holiday and onward travel. The Imaginative Traveller cannot accept responsibility for anyone who is refused entry to a country because they lack the correct documentation.

International Vaccination Certificate
To enter Senegal and the Gambia you must have been vaccinated for Yellow Fever and have with you an International Vaccination Certificate to prove it. The certificate is not valid until ten days after the date of your last vaccination and then lasts for ten years. You will generally be asked for this after passport control at Dakar International Airport and at the Gambia-Senegal border.

Money

Local Currency

The monetary unit in the Gambia is the Dalasi, divided into 100 bututs. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:

• 1 Pound Sterling = 40.3 D
• 1 US Dollar = 20.6 D
• 1 Euro = 31.6 D

There are no currency declaration forms in Gambia.

The monetary unit in Senegal is the West Africa Franc or CFA Franc (CFA), divided into 100 centimes. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:

• 1 Pound Sterling = 835 CFA
• 1 US Dollar = 427.2 CFA
• 1 Euro = 656 CFA

There is no restriction on the amount of foreign currency that a visitor may bring into Senegal.

XE.com is a useful site for currency conversion.

Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATMs

It is a good idea to carry most of your money in Euros. It is usually possible to exchange other major currencies (particularly USD and £UK) in the capital cities. Currency exchange is possible at main banks in large towns, but this can be a slow process and may take patience – particularly when changing traveller's cheques. It is generally better to bring cash though some travellers do not like to do this for safety reasons.

Please note that Gambian currency is not convertible abroad and you should only change what you think you will spend.

Normally there is no commission on currency exchange. Credit cards are accepted in major cities and cash advances on Amex, Visa and MasterCard are only possible from certain banks. ATMs can be found in the capital and major cities but are nonexistent beyond the capital and the resorts. The Pre Departure Booklet that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains general information about organising your spending money. Your Tour Leader will be able to advise you on local facilities.

Working out your Budget

The Pre-Departure Information contains general information about the things you will need to consider when budgeting for your holiday. Below are some specific notes relevant to our tour in Senegal and the Gambia.

Meals

All breakfasts and some dinners are included on our tour in Senegal and the Gambia. All other meals will be at your expense. Approximate costs for meals in the region are as follows:

• Simple snack - US$0.50-1
• Light meal - US$2-5
• Fancy restaurant - US$5-12

For a guide to the type of food you will find in Gambia and Senegal see the Local Food & Drink section of this dossier.

Drinks
Tea and coffee is provided with breakfast but all other drinks (i.e. bottled water, soft drinks) are at your own expense. Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown below. Note: Prices in restaurants and hotels can be as much as double those specified.

• 1l of water - US$0.50
• 30cl bottle of soft drink - US$0.5-1
• 65cl bottle of beer - US$1-2

It is not recommended that you drink the local tap water in the Gambia and Senegal however bottled water, soft drinks and fruit juices are widely available throughout the country.

Local Transport

Generally speaking the best way to get around the region’s towns and villages is on foot. If you don’t want to walk, however, the most common means of transport is a shared taxi or minibus. Referred to by a variety of names minibuses and small pick-ups of no distinct make, model or colour ply a set route stopping to pick up other passengers along the way. Shared taxis usually charge around US$0.50-2.50 for a short hop or if privately chartered within town will cost US$2-5. It is not advisable to travel on local transport at night as accidents often occur in the dark. A taxi from the city centre to Dakar International Airport will cost approx US$3-5 (shared) and approx. US$10 (private). Taxis are not metered and fares should always be bargained for and agreed before the journey starts.

What to Take

The Pre-Departure Information that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains a comprehensive list of items that you should consider bringing with you. There are certain items of equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, towels) that you will need on some tours and not on others. Check your Trip Dossier for any special requirements.

Clothing
As a general guideline, clothing should be lightweight, loose fitting, hard-wearing and easily washed. In West Africa’s climate cotton clothing is much more comfortable than man-made materials like nylon. In the cooler winter months (Dec-Feb) it can be very cold at night so you should bring some warm clothing. However, you should allow for climate changes whenever you travel and you will generally find it is better to have several thin layers rather than one thick layer as it gives you more flexibility and warmth. A fleece can be invaluable and double as a pillow.

Although predominantly a Muslim area, the regions have relatively relaxed attitudes towards dress and shorts are acceptable through much of the country. You should also bear in mind that long sleeves and trousers can be very useful in the evenings to help prevent against mosquito bites and during the day to protect against the sun.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: The sun can be very strong in the Gambia and Senegal and you need to take appropriate precautions. Drink lots of water and always wear a hat during the day. A sarong can also be invaluable as you can use this to cover any part of your body that you think may be getting too much sun.

In certain areas and religious sites your Tour Leader may ask you to dress conservatively. Out of respect for local values, we ask that you follow your Tour Leader’s advice at all times.

Other Useful Equipment
You will find a general equipment list in our Pre Departure Booklet which should help you decide what to bring – and may remind you of a few things you haven't thought of! However there are some items on this list which we highly recommend you bring to Senegal and the Gambia. A torch (and spare batteries) can be invaluable and a hat/sarong will help keep dust and sand out of your hair (even a light breeze kicks up the dust – which gets everywhere!) Likewise dusty conditions make the wearing of contact lenses inadvisable. You should also bring personal medical supplies and toiletries, including rehydration salts, anti-diarrhoea pills, aspirins, antiseptic/disinfectant, sunscreen, tampons, necessary medicines, etc.

Malaria
At all times of the year it is highly advisable to protect yourself while in the region with a course of prophylactics or 'anti malarial' tablets. Generally you will need to begin taking the tablets a week or two before travel and continue for up to four weeks after you return home. It is important that you consult your doctor for information on the specific course required. You should remember that anti-malarial tablets are never 100% effective and should always be combined with other preventative measures to avoid being bitten. Alongside keeping exposed skin to a minimum you should also use an insect repellent with a high concentration of DEET (particularly in the evenings and when near rivers). It is NOT necessary to bring a mosquito net: in hotels there is mesh covering the windows to keep mosquito out (or mosquito nets may be provided).

Luggage
It is important to bring durable soft luggage or a back pack which does not weigh more than around 10-12kg as this is a lot more practical to transport.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: You may want to bring a waterproof pack cover or line your pack with a bin bag to protect against dust.

Prepare Yourself
Whilst few of our tours can be described as physically demanding you will find all activities more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit and active.

Cultural & Environmental Guidelines

The Environment

Toilets
In places where toilets are not available such as while sailing the River Gambia or trekking in the National Parks please ensure that you find a spot well away from local settlements and take away your toilet paper. You should bring a supply of plastic bags for this purpose. You should not burn your paper as this can cause fires and burying is also not an option in such a dry climate.

Wherever you use a western or squat style toilet remember to place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin provided – DO NOT flush it down the toilet as this may block the sewerage system. You may also want to carry your own toilet paper as not all toilets will supply it.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: You may find it useful to take along a supply of antiseptic wet wipes or waterless soap to help keep clean.

Resources
In the Gambia and Senegal resources such as water and electricity are extremely precious. Please bear this in mind when washing and showering and try to limit your water and electricity usage as much as possible.

Etiquette & Customs

Greetings are fundamental in Gambia and Senegal – no conversation starts without polite enquiries about one another's health and family and often a handshake. Even if you are just asking for directions or entering a shop it is considered rude not to start with a simple greeting like "how are you?" If you can learn to say this in Wolof or Mandinka (see the general information section) you're sure to be a big hit! Try to remember to use your right hand for giving, receiving, shaking hands or eating (if there is no cutlery) as the left is associated with washing after visiting the toilet. You should also note that pointing your finger is considered an obscene gesture and open displays of anger or affection (such as kissing and holding hands) are generally not acceptable.

Photography

You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. Some people may also ask for a small gift or money in return for a photo.

Haggling

Haggling is a way of life in the Gambia and Senegal. Prices are not fixed and nearly everything is negotiable with bargaining expected. Shop keepers and market traders will start with a high price which you are then expected to haggle down until you reach a fair price (although this can sometimes be as low as one third of the price you were first told remember you may be haggling over only a few cents which mean a lot more to the shop keeper than you). Haggling should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun!

Arrival

Arrival Transfers

An arrival transfer is included in the cost of the tour. Upon arrival at Dakar Airport, please look out for our representative who will be holding a sign with your name on it. They will usually be waiting after the customs area. Please make sure you take time to look around carefully for our representative with the sign. There may be a large crowd of people waiting, and it may take time to find them.

If several travellers on Imaginative Traveller tours are arriving on the same flight, the transfer representative may be taking you all together to the meeting point. Please be patient if you need to wait a few minutes for other travellers from the same flight.

The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: If you experience any problems with your luggage and are delayed in the baggage/customs area, please try to make contact with the transfer representative immediately to advise them of the problem and ensure they wait for you. You may need to ask permission of security to exit the customs/baggage hall and then re-enter.

Making Your Own Way

The Meeting Point for your tour should be clearly marked on your travel vouchers. A complete list of all meeting point hotels can also be found at www.imaginative-traveller.com/ downloads

If you have not arranged an arrival transfer, then you should take a taxi to the meeting point hotel. Taxis can be found outside of the airport building. As prices can vary wildly, it’s worth asking around to obtain the best deal. Don’t be afraid to bargain! You should agree a fare with the driver before getting in. As a general rule, at the time of writing taxis cost around US$15 birr for the trip to the hotel.

On Tour

Safety

Most people find that the region is very friendly and hospitable and feel quite comfortable wandering around alone during the day. However, as with any country you are not familiar with it is recommended that you exercise more caution at night and generally take taxis rather than walk especially if you are a lone female. It is also a good idea to be discreet with your money and possessions at all times.

Tour Leaders & Guides

Your Tour Leader's role is to ensure all aspects of the trip run smoothly. He/she will share their local knowledge, advise on how to fill your free time and co-ordinate the day to day running of the tour – although occasionally he/she may need your understanding if things do not go according to plan. If you have any problems on the tour, please let your Tour Leader know so that steps can be taken to put it right. Tour Leaders are supported by our regionally based office staff and, in most cases, a locally based manager.

On tour we also use the services of specialist guides and naturalists at selected sights of particular historical, cultural and natural interest.

Please note that some styles of trip, such as Imaginative Escapes or Imaginative Honeymoons, do not have a Tour Leader. However, there will be representatives on hand who will be able to assist you in arranging any excursions that you wish you take.

Accommodation

Accommodation in the Gambia and Senegal does vary considerably and outside of the main cities there is often limited choice. As with all Imaginative Traveller tours, our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness and we try to stay in the best available. However, in the region air conditioning and hot water are often luxuries rather than the norm. More often than not we stay in hotels or campements which are simple, but functional with a warm welcome and bags of charm. You should however bear in mind that all levels of hotels can sometimes suffer from minor problems and technical difficulties.

At each hotel your Tour Leader will try to organise the rooming arrangements to suit everyone's requirements. If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a room with another group member of the same sex. If you are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot guarantee the availability of double beds.

Laundry

An inexpensive (price per item) laundry service is available in many of the hotels we use.

Local Food & Drink

Food
The region’s population enjoys a mainly carnivorous diet. The most common local street food stall will be a chop house which sells afra, barbecued meat. Yassa chicken the cassamancais dish famous in Senegal is also popular throughout the region, chicken or fish having been marinaded in lemon, chilli and onions. Jollof rice is quite common and usually mixed with beef, tomato and vegetables resembling a casserole. Domodah, made with peanuts is generally delicious, a sauce added to chicken or beef and always rice. Consisting of mainly a river and coastline, the seafood of the Gambia is wonderful. On the coast, prawns, barracuda and ladyfish (sole) are baked, fried and made into a chowder or bouillabaisse. Pies, deep fried pockets of meat of vegetables – similar to pakoras - are popular and readily available on most street corners. Mechoui or barbecued meat of sheep or goat is very common on almost any street corner and is eaten all over the region.

Drinks
Strong sweet coffee and tea is drunk all over the Gambia and Senegal and stalls selling tea and coffee can be found around markets and transport parks. Major international brands of soft drinks are readily available, as well as local brands and fresh fruit juice. The popular local juices sold virtually everywhere are frozen fruit drinks served in a small plastic bag flavoured with hibiscus, ginger or the fruit of the baobab tree.

Although the region is predominantly Muslim most towns have at least one bar where you can buy alcohol. JulBrew is Gambia’s local and most abundant lager which is brewed strong. Palm wine, a Gambian specialty, illegal but ubiquitous nonetheless is potent and only for the courageous drinker. Imported beer, wine and spirits can be found in larger supermarkets in Banjul.

In Senegal, Flag is the most popular local brew while La Gazelle is less strong but comes in 600mL bottles.

Special Dietary Requirements

Vegetarians
In Gambia and Senegal you can find food without meat, however even the simplest vegetable sauce may sometimes have a small bit of meat or animal fat in it. Therefore, if you are a vegetarian you may experience a distinct lack of variety and protein (generally the main source of protein will be omelettes). Your Tour Leader will do their best to offer a vegetarian alternative, but your patience and understanding is requested.

Food Allergies
If you have food allergies or preferences, please make them known to your Tour Leader who will do their best to ensure that your requirements are met.

Please note: Unfortunately we can give no guarantee that special requirements can always be met.

Communications

Email
Internet cafes are beginning to appear in the Gambia and Senegal and, telephone lines permitting, there are places in the major cities where internet access is possible. Access is scant beyond the capital in the Gambia. The average cost for an hour is approx. US$1.50.

Phone
The regional phone system can be very unpredictable outside the capital cities. It is advisable to use an official call office in major cities where the cost of your call depends on the number of units used. More cost effective would be to use a phonecard available from telephone offices or general stores.

Post
Most towns have a post office where you can purchase stamps. The postal service is reasonably efficient and an overseas stamp will cost between US$0.50 and US$1 depending on the country.

Cameras

Availability of Film
Camera film can be found in major cities but it is expensive and can be damaged by the intense heat of the sun. Therefore it is best to bring your supply from home to be sure of the quality.

General Information

Weather

Although the region has two distinct seasons the climate is nearly always hot, dry and dusty. The wet season lasts from May to October and is characterised by monsoonal winds and torrential rain. The dry season lasts from October to July and is characterised by low humidity, high temperatures and desert winds. Between December and January average temperatures are a more bearable 28-31 degrees Celsius making for the best time to visit. From March to May the harmattan wind can blow hot, dry air from the Sahara occasionally making dust and heat a major irritation.

The following Table shows average daytime temperatures (in Degrees Celsius):

Senegal Meteorological Authority

Gambia Meteorological Authority

Holidays

Religious Holidays (2005 dates)

• Eid el Kebir - 21 Jan
• Islamic New Year - 10 Feb
• Martyrs' Day - 20 Feb
• Prophet Mohammed's B'day - 21 Apr
• Ramadan - 5 Oct
• Eid el Fitr - 4 Nov

Events

• Magal –Mouride pilgrimage to Touba in northern Senegal - 30 Mar

Senegal Public Holidays

Gambia Public Holidays

Suggested Reading

Guidebooks

• Rough Guide West Africa
• Lonely Planet West Africa

Background Reading

• Our Grandmother’s Drums – Mark Hudson (Gambia)
• The Music in My Head – Mark Hudson
• Ambiguous Adventure – Cheikh Hamidou Kane

Useful Phrases in Mandinka

• Hello – salaam aleykum
• Goodbye – I si kontong
• How are you? – khaira be?
• Thank you – abaraka
• Yes - naam
• No - cha
• How much? – jaweata?
• Everything is OK - Tanante

Mandinka Numbers

• 1 - kiling
• 2 - fula
• 3 - saba
• 4 - nani
• 5 - lulu
• 6 - woro
• 7 - worowula
• 8 - sei
• 9 - kononto
• 10 - tang
• 11 - tang nngi kiling
• 20 - moang
• 35 - tang saba ning lulu
• 100 - keme

Useful Phrases in Wolof

• Hello – salaam aleykum
• Goodbye – mangi dem
• How are you? – nanga def?
• Thank you – jerejef
• Yes - waaw
• No - deedeet
• Excuse me/sorry – su la nexe
• How much? – bi nyata le?
• I don't understand – man deguma

Wolof Numbers

• 1 - bena
• 2 - nyar
• 3 - nyeta
• 4 - nyenent
• 5 - jerom
• 6 - jerom bena
• 7 - jerom nyar
• 8 - jerom nyeta
• 9 - jerom nyenent
• 10 - fuka
• 11 - fuka bena
• 12 - fuka nyar
• 20 - nyar fuka
• 30 - nyet fuka
• 40 - nyenent fuka
• 50 - jerom fuka
• 100 - temer
• 1000 - june

Useful Phrases in French

Although Wolof is more widely spoken, French is still useful (and easier to master!)

• Hello – bonjour
• Goodbye – au revoir
• Please – s'il vous plaît
• How are you? – comment allez-vous / ça va
• Fine thanks – très bien, merci
• Thank you – merci
• Yes - oui
• No - non
• Excuse me – excuse-moi
• How much? – c'est combien?
• I don't understand – je ne comprends pas

French Numbers

• 0 - zèro
• 1 - un
• 2 - deux
• 3 - trois
• 4 - quatre
• 5 - cinq
• 6 - six
• 7 - sept
• 8 - huit
• 9 - neuf
• 10 - dix
• 11 - onze
• 12 - douze
• 13 - treize
• 20 - vingt
• 30 - trente
• 40 - quarante
• 50 - cinquante
• 100 - cent
• 1000 - mille

Contact Details

Local Office
The Imaginative Traveller
C/o Tropictours
180 Bld de General de Gaulle
BP 697, DAKAR
Tel/Fax +221 33 8218957

UK Office
The Imaginative Traveller
1 Betts Avenue
Martlesham Heath
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP5 3RH
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1473 667337
Fax: +44 (0)1473 614566

24hr Emergency Contact
(MOB): +44 7802 415 886 (UK)
(MOB): + 221 77 6391389/
+ 221 77 6449825 (Senegal)