Central Asia Country Dossier
"I've always liked unusual destinations that provide a challenge and offer a glimpse of a completely different way of life. Central Asia fits these requirements (and then some) and last year I spent one of my most enjoyable holidays ever, exploring the wilds of this exhilarating region. The most exciting thing is the scenery – this really is the wilderness and there are lakes, mountains, plains, rivers, cliffs that can keep even the most hardened traveller happy."
Daniel McGrath – Traveller
- Factfile
- Preparing to go
- Money
- Cultural & Environmental Guidelines
- Arrival
- On Tour
- General Information
Factfile
Kyrgyzstan
Capital: Bishkek
Official Language: Kyrgyz, Russian
Religions: Islam, Russian Orthodox and other Christian minorities
Voltage: 220 Volts using European style two-pin plugs (narrow round pins).
Kazakhstan
Capital: Astana
Official Language: Kazakh, Russian
Religions: Muslim (47%), Russian Orthodox (44%), Protestant (2%)
Voltage: 220 Volts using European style two-pin plugs (narrow round pins).
Uzbekistan
Capital: Tashkent
Official Language: Uzbek, Russian
Religions: Muslim 88%, other 12% (mainly Eastern Orthodox).
Voltage: 220 Volts using European style two-pin plugs (narrow round pins).
Turkmenistan
Capital: Ashgabat
Official Language: Turkmen, Russian, Uzbek
Religions: 89% Muslim, 9% Eastern Orthodox
Voltage: 220 Volts using European style two-pin plugs (narrow round pins) or sometimes American style two parallel flat blades above a circular grounding pin.
Preparing to go
Visas
Kyrgyzstan Visa Notes
One passport photograph is required to obtain a Kyrgyzstan visa. Some nationalities will also need official visa support before they can apply for their Kyrgyzstan visa. This will be supplied by The Imaginative Traveller (or our agent) for those clients that need it. It is therefore imperative that you advise us of your nationality, as per your passport, at the time of booking, so that we can request the visa support if you need this. If you do need visa support we will also need more information from you, to be advised at the time.
These guidelines are based on information supplied by the Kyrgyzstan Embassy in London. If you are applying for your visa elsewhere please check details with your selected embassy.
At the time of booking you will also be given further guidance (Visa Guidelines) including the place names and relevant dates to use for border crossings, if relevant.
Please note: We cannot request the visa support until we have full passport and client details from you. It is your responsibility to provide us with these details in full. Failure to do so will mean that we cannot provide the visa support.
If any of this information subsequently changes an administration fee of £25 will apply. Not all countries have official Kyrgyzstan representation, in which case you will need to allow extra time to send your passport to a country with a Kyrgyzstan embassy. It is your responsibility to check this.
We recommend you apply through a visa service agency.
Kazakhstan Visa Notes
One passport photograph is required to obtain a Kazakhstan visa. All clients will also need official visa support before they can apply for the double entry Kazakhstan visa. This will be supplied by The Imaginative Traveller (or our agent).
These guidelines are based on information supplied by the Kazakhstan Embassy in London. If you are applying for your visa elsewhere please check details with your selected embassy. At the time of booking you will be given further guidance (Visa Guidelines) including the place names and relevant dates to use for border crossings.
Please note: We cannot request the visa support until we have full passport & client details from you, including a clear, preferably scanned, copy of your Passport. It is your responsibility to provide us with these details in full. Failure to do so will mean that we cannot provide the visa support. If any of this information subsequently changes an administration fee of £25 will apply.
Not all countries have official Kazakhstan representation, in which case you will need to allow extra time to send your passport to a country with a Kazakhstan embassy. It is your responsibility to check this.
We recommend you apply through a visa service agency.
Uzbekistan Visa Notes
Two passport photographs are required to obtain an Uzbekistan visa. Most nationalities will also need official visa support before they can apply for their Uzbekistan visa. This will be supplied by The Imaginative Traveller (or our agents) for those clients that need it. It is therefore imperative that you advise us of your nationality, as per your passport, at the time of booking, so that we can request the visa support if you need this. If this is the case we will also need more information from you.
These guidelines are based on information supplied by the Uzbekistan Embassy in London. If you are applying for your visa elsewhere please check details with your selected embassy. At the time of booking you will be given further guidance (Visa Guidelines) including the place names and relevant dates to use for border crossings.
Please note: We cannot request the visa support until we have full passport and client details from you. We will also need a clear copy of your passport and the embassy at which you are to apply for the visa. The visa support is embassy-specific, so you cannot subsequently change your mind about where you will get the visa. It is your responsibility to provide us with these details in full. Failure to do so will mean that we cannot provide the visa support. If any of this information subsequently changes an administration fee of GBP25 will apply. Not all countries have official Uzbekistan representation, in which case you will need to allow extra time to send your passport to a country with an Uzbekistan embassy. It is your responsibility to check this.
We recommend you apply through a visa service agency.
Turkmenistan Visa Notes
Visas are required by all nationals. All passports must be valid for six months. We advise that you obtain your visa before departure.
You will need two application forms, two passport size photographs, guarantee and authorisation letter, and your passport to apply. The visa will take 7 days to issue. (Visa valid for restricted stay only.)
We recommend you apply through a visa service agency.
Money
Local Currency
Kyrgyzstan
The monetary unit of Kyrgyzstan is the Som. One Som is divided into 100 tiyin. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:
- 1 Pound Sterling = 74 Som
- 1 US Dollar = 36.5 Som
- 1 Euro = 56 Som
At present there are no restrictions on the amount of foreign currency that a visitor may bring into Kyrgyzstan however sums over US$5,000 should be declared on arrival.
Kazakhstan
The monetary unit of Kazakhstan is the Tenge. One Tenge is divided into 100 tiyn. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:
- 1 Pound Sterling = 235 Tenge
- 1 US Dollar = 120.5 Tenge
- 1 Euro = 186 Tenge
Uzbekistan
The monetary unit of Uzbekistan is the Som. One Som is divided into 100 tiyn. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:
- 1 Pound Sterling = 2,545 UZS
- 1 US Dollar = 1,300 UZS
- 1 Euro = 2,003 UZS
Turkmenistan
The monetary unit of Turkmenistan is the Manat. One Manat is divided into 100 tenge. Approximate exchange rates (as at May 2008) are as follows:
- 1 Pound Sterling = 10,180 Manats
- 1 US Dollar = 5,200 Manats
- 1 Euro = 8,013 Manats
XE.com is a useful site for currency conversion.
Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATMs
Changing money can be done easily. The official rate of exchange is approximately the same as it is at exchange offices. Your tour leader will be able to advise you on the best places to change money, taking into account the latest situation.
We strongly advise you to carry the majority of your funds in new, clean notes in US dollars cash. Small denominations are easier to change. Other currencies can generally be exchanged in capital cities but not usually elsewhere.
Although it is sometimes possible to cash traveller’s cheques at some banks the commission rates are generally high and the service is not generally available at many banks.
There are almost no ATMs available for foreign currency exchange in Central Asia. Although it may be possible to get a cash advance on a credit card, we strongly advise against relying on this as a means of obtaining cash.
The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: Notes should be blemish free as you may experience some problems changing old or damaged notes. Scottish pound notes are not recognised at all.
The Pre-Departure Information that you will receive once you have booked your tour contains general information about organising your spending money.
Optional Excursions & Activities
All of our itineraries include some free time, the amount of which usually depends on the style of tour you are travelling on (Pioneer and Adventurer trips generally have more than Traveller). If you wish to take optional excursions your Tour Leader will be able to advise you of the possibilities in each area. Some trips, such as Escapes and Honeymoons do not have a Tour Leader, but there will always be a contactable local representative to advise you.
Meals
You will find the meal plan for your tour clearly indicated in the brochure and on your Trip Dossier. Pioneer tours do not generally include meals. Your tour leader will collect a food kitty to pay for supplies when camping.
Food
Central Asia is a melting pot of different culinary influences. On the one hand you've got the heavily meat-based diet of the nomads, with mutton, milk products and horse sausage all common in parts of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Turkmenistan. On the other is the Turkish-influenced cuisine of Uzbekistan and other groups, involving kebabs, pasta and breads. You can't go far in Central Asia before encountering plov, a rice dish with meat, onions, chickpeas, and sometimes raisins - similar to pilaf.
Special Dietary Requirements
Vegetarians
Although meat is often not the main feature of a meal, it can be found in many dishes, even if only as a stock. Therefore if you are a vegetarian you may experience a distinct lack of variety in the food available at meal times. Your Tour Leader will do their best to offer a vegetarian alternative but your patience and understanding is requested.
Food Allergies
If you have food allergies or preferences please make them known to your Tour Leader who will do their best to ensure that your requirements are met.
Please note: Unfortunately we can give no guarantee that special requirements can always be met.
Approximate costs for meals and snacks not included are shown below:
Kyrgyzstan
- Simple snack = US$2
- Light meal = US$3-5
- Full dinner = US$15-20
Kazakhstan
- Simple snack = US$2-8
- Light meal = US$8-20
- Full dinner = US$20-40
Uzbekistan
- Simple snack = US$1-4
- Light meal = US$4-8
- Full dinner = US$8-10
Turkmenistan
- Simple snack = US$1-4
- Light meal = US$4-8
- Full dinner = US$8-15
Drinks
Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown below.
- 1l of water - US$0.5
- Can of soft drink - US$0.5
- 50 cl bottle of beer - US$2.0
It is not recommended that you drink the local tap water anywhere in Central Asia. However, bottled water, carbonated soft drinks and fruit juices are widely available throughout the country.
There are many milk products available such as ayran, a salty yoghurt drink. Tea is drunk everywhere in Central Asia, normally known as chai. Russians prefer black tea, but elsewhere green tea is the favourite. Turkmen put camel's milk in it, Kazakhs prefer a brew with milk, salt and butter added.
Despite being predominantly Islamic countries, most Central Asians drink. Like Russians, toasts play an important part in drinking and a guest may be expected to offer the first one. It is expected that you will drain your glass each time.
Kumis (Kymys, qymyz) is fermented mare's milk which is 2-3% alcohol. It's only available in spring when the horses are foaling. The best kumis comes direct from the herders - the shop-bought stuff is often watered down. Too much kumis can have disastrous consequences on the digestion.
What to Take
The Pre-Departure Information contains a comprehensive list of items that you should consider bringing with you. There are certain items of equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, towels) that you will need on some tours and not on others. Check your Trip Dossier for any special requirements.
The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: Bring a backpack or easy to carry luggage and travel light. You will have to carry your own luggage frequently – don't let this be an ordeal!
Clothing
As a general guideline, clothing should be lightweight, loose fitting, hard-wearing and easily washed. In Central Asia's hot summer months, cotton clothing is much more comfortable than man-made materials like nylon. Be prepared for cooler evenings and early morning starts which can be surprisingly chilly. For this reason you will generally find it better to pack several thin layers rather than one thick layer. A fleece can be invaluable and double as a pillow. Winters can be bitterly cold, with temperatures down to -40°C. At higher altitudes snow can fall at any time of year.
You should bear in mind that many people in Islamic countries have conservative attitudes towards dress. Although you may see women wearing miniskirts in the major cities, we advise travellers to take some more conservative clothing (shorts/ skirts that come down at least to the knee). Your Tour Leader will be able to advise you what kind of dress is appropriate for each different area.
The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: Bring along a set of smart casual clothes for the occasional night out. For women, a sarong is an invaluable item to carry as it can be used to instantly cover any exposed areas (i.e. head, legs).
Prepare Yourself
Whilst few of our tours can be described as physically demanding you will find all activities more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit and active. Many countries in Central Asia are mountainous and our tours offer some superb trekking opportunities.
You should ensure your inoculations are up to date. Typhoid and Hepatitis A are endemic in the region.
Cultural & Environmental Guidelines
The Environment
Toilet Paper
Our trips have a few days where toilets are not available. When you do answer the call of nature please burn your toilet paper – do not bury it. If it is not possible to burn it, take it back to the camp where it can be placed in the rubbish bin and disposed of appropriately.
Whenever you use a western or squat-style toilet please place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin provided – do not flush it down the toilet as this may block the sewerage system. You may also want to carry your own toilet paper as not all toilets will supply it.
The Imaginative Traveller Recommends: You may find it useful to take along antiseptic gel for your hands, and plastic bags to put your toilet paper in if it cannot be burned/placed in a bin.
General
Please make sure that you adhere to normal standards of responsible travel, such as conserving electricity and water, not littering and taking care not to disturb wildlife.
Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no.
Haggling
Haggling is a way of life in Central Asia. In most tourist shops there is no fixed price so the shop keeper will start with a high price which you are then expected to haggle down until you reach a fair price. Haggling should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun – you will find most shop owners are very friendly and may invite you in for a cup of tea to break the ice before the haggling starts.
Arrival
Arrival Transfers
Upon arrival, please look for our representative who will be holding an Imaginative Traveller sign. They should be waiting for you in the Arrivals Hall (i.e. after exiting the Immigration and Customs area).
Making Your Own Way
The Meeting Point for your tour should be clearly marked on your travel vouchers.
Kyrgyzstan
In Kyrgyzstan, Manas airport is 30km from Bishkek city centre and the easiest way to get to your hotel is to take a taxi from the taxi rank outside the arrivals terminal. This should cost about US$10, paid in Som, unless you arrive at night or at the weekend. There is an express bus service but this does not stop close to our hotel.
Kazakhstan
Almaty airport in Kazakhstan has regular buses into the town centre - numbers 439, 492 and 497 seem to run the route. Some airlines, such as KLM, offer a free shuttle service. There are many taxis available which should take you for around US$5 - a Lonely Planet tip is to write this down and show it to the driver, thus preventing any misunderstanding over the fare.
Uzbekistan
In Uzbekistan, flights arrive at Tashkent's recently modernised airport. The easist way of getting into town is by bus - number 67 takes 35 minutes to the Hotel Intercontinental, and there is an express bus, number 67-3. Marshrutnoe (minibus) 62 and trolleybus 14 all follow similar routes, taking slightly longer. Taxis take 20 minutes to do the 7km into town, and normally charge US$10 for foreigners, US$4 for locals.
Russia
For trips which begin in Moscow, such as APMB - The Rhubarb Road, there are two airports which travellers generally arrive at:
Sheremetyevo Airport
(Receives most flights except Swiss Airlines and British Airways)
You can arrange a taxi from the airport in Moscow directly to your city centre hotel. The price for this should be around US$50 but the taxi drivers will try to overcharge you - make sure you haggle.
Alternatively you can take a minibus to the nearest metro station Rechnoy Vokzal (Речной вокзал) on the Zamoskvoretskaya Line (Замоскворецкая линия) green line and take the metro from there to the centre of Moscow. Details of the metro can be found below. Minibuses for Rechnoy Vokzal leave from approx. 200m in front of the terminal and cost about US$1.5- US$2.
Domodedovo Airport
(Receives Swiss Airlines and British Airways)
Taxis are available and cost around US$50. Again make sure that you haggle.
If using public transport the best way to get into Moscow is using the ‘Aeroexpress’, a fast train service that takes you directly to Paveletsky railway station - metro Paveletskaya (Павелецкая) on the Zamoskvoretskaya Line (Замоскворецкая линия). This costs around US$5 and from Paveletsky you can take the metro or a taxi.
Local Transport
Taxis are usually the most effective method of local transport and are recommended for most journeys within a city. Official private taxis companies (Super taxi, Express taxi, Salam, Mobi taxi) are marked with the name of the taxi company though almost anyone will stop and offer a lift for a charge. You should be confident that an unofficial taxi knows your destination and has agreed a price before entering. Most rides cost less than US$2.
Note: Taxi drivers do not usually speak English. Your Tour Leader will provide maps or cards with popular destinations in Cyrillic where necessary.
Local buses
Local buses are very cheap but crowded. Minibuses called marshrutkas or similar also operate on some useful routes. If you would like to use these, ask your Tour Leader for details.
On Tour
Safety
Most people find that Central Asia is a very friendly and hospitable region and feel quite comfortable wandering around alone during the day. However, as with any country you are not familiar with, it is recommended that you exercise more caution at night, particularly in cities and towns. Your Tour Leader will advise on safe and unsafe areas. Pickpockets and other opportunists operate around some tourist sites.
The number of corrupt officials has fallen in Central Asia in recent years as economies have stabilised after communism, but corruption still abounds, especially among the police in Uzbekistan, where the Tashkent Metro is developing a reputation for police checkpoints and sometimes on the spot fines. Always be polite, stay calm, never sign anything, and ensure you have all your required documents (a photocopy of your passport with visas shown may be sufficient - check with your Tour Leader). If you are apprehensive ask to see their ID, and if necessary ask to see a senior officer, or nachalnik. Attempts to extract a bribe are nearly always opportunistic and if it is becoming too much trouble most officials will give up if you are prepared to wait it out.
You should carry an identity document at all times in Turkmenistan. Requests to produce proof of identity, for example by the police, are frequent.
Tour Leaders & Guides
Your Tour Leader’s role is to ensure all aspects of the trip run smoothly. He/she will share their local knowledge, advise on how to fill your free time and co-ordinate the day to day running of the tour – although occasionally he/she may need your understanding if things do not go according to plan. If you have any problems on the tour, please let your Tour Leader know so that steps can be taken to put it right. Tour Leaders are supported by our local agents and a regionally based manager.
Please note that some styles of trip, such as Imaginative Escapes or Imaginative Honeymoons, do not have a Tour Leader. However, there will be representatives on hand who will be able to assist you in arranging any excursions that you wish you take.
Accommodation
Our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness. On Pioneer tours hotels are generally simple. Traveller trips operate at a higher level of comfort, and Adventurer tours are somewhere in between. Bathroom facilities may sometimes be shared and rooms may sometimes be multi-share rather than twin. Please bear in mind that hotels can sometimes suffer from minor problems and technical difficulties.
At each hotel your Tour Leader will try to organise the rooming arrangements to suit everyone's requirements. If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a room with another group member of the same sex. If you are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot guarantee the availability of double beds.
Laundry
A laundry service is available in some of the hotels we use.
Communications
Email
Internet cafes are springing up all over Central Asia, and usually cost around US$1-2 an hour. The exception is Turkmenistan which is emerging from years of isolation and where the media is very tightly controlled. Your Tour Leader will be able to advise on the most convenient and cheapest options at the time.
Phone
It is easy to make international phone calls from most Central Asian countries in the main telegraph and telephone offices. Your tour leader will be able to advise you on the best places to do this. International calls cost US$2-3.5 per minute.
Post
The postal service is generally a bit slow but mail usually does arrive eventually. Your tour leader will be able to advise you as to where to buy stamps and post letters. A postcard costs about US$0.15; an airmail letter twice that.
Cameras
Although camera film is available in many Central Asian cities it is not always of the highest quality as it may have been stored in less than ideal circumstances. We advise you to bring your own film.
If you have a digital camera you should ensure that you bring an adequate supply of memory cards to cover the entire trip. While you may find an internet café which will burn your memory card to CD, PCs may be infected with viruses or lack the adequate software. Similarly, camera batteries are hard to find. The best bet is to bring two sets of rechargables and your own charger (with international adapter).
May people in Central Asia are wary of being photographed, particularly women. Always ask permission, and respect their wishes if they refuse. The Russian phrase is "fotografirovat mozhno?" - "may I take a photo?".
General Information
Weather
Being so far from the sea, Central Asia's climate can be extreme. Summer, from June to September, can be ferociously hot in the lowland areas, with temperatures above 40°C for extended periods. The winters can be frigid, down to -40°C. As a result the best overall time to visit is spring or autumn. July and August are the best months to go trekking.
Holidays
National Holidays
Secular public holidays, when banks and government offices are closed, are rare and many shops remain open even on these days. Generally the dates follow a similar pattern to this one for Kyrgyzstan:
- Orthodox Christmas - 7 Jan
- Women’s Day - 8 Mar
- Nooruz - 21 Mar
- Labour Day - 1 May
- Constitution Day - 5 May
- Victory Day - 9 May
- Independence Day - 31 Aug
- New Year - 31 Dec.-1 Jan
Islamic Holidays
Islamic Holidays are fixed in accordance with the Lunar Calendar. Ramadan is celebrated in many Central Asian countries but with little fanfare, and food is still widely available. The other main festival is Noorus, or Persian New Year, which is celebrated in March.
Suggested Reading
Guidebooks
- Central Asia – Lonely Planet
- The Silk Roads – Trailblazer
Background Reading
- Manas - the national epic poem of Kyrgystan.
- The Rukhnama - the Turkmen spiritual guide that became part of the national curriculum, written by former leader Saparmurat Niyazov, also known as 'The Turkmenbashi'.
- The Great Game - by Peter Hopkirk. Fast-paced and readable account of the 19th century struggle for power between Britain and Russia in Asia.
- The Lost Heart of Asia - by Colin Thubron. Beautiful prose and thorough research from one of the finest travel writers.
- Eastern Approaches - by Fitzroy Maclean. The book covers Maclean's visit to Central Asia in the 1930s, and his later service with the SAS in North Africa during World War II and time with the partisans in Yugoslavia.
Contact Details
Kyrgyzstan Local Office
The Imaginative Traveller
C/o 124, Chui Prospect
720040, Bishkek
Tel.: (+996 312) 663-664
Fax: (+996 612) 900-420
Uzbekistan Local Office
Malika Tashkent Hotel
53,A Chopon-ota Street, 700113
Tashkent
Tel: +998 71 173 01 25
Fax: +998 71 173 15 52
24hr Emergency Contact
MOB: +86 139 7733 1844
UK Office
The Imaginative Traveller
1 Betts Avenue
Martlesham Heath
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP5 3RH
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1473 667337
Fax: +44 (0)1473 614566
24hr Emergency Contact
(MOB): +86 139 7733 1844
